The text the images and the videos presented are all based on the book
MIL
The text the images and the videos presented are all based on the book
MILADY
Standard fundamentals esthe
The text the images and the videos presented are all based on the book
MILADY
Standard fundamentals esthetics
Printed in USA year 2021
Cengage learning
The list of all the chapters:
_________________________
-
Infection control principles and practices
Viruses
Principles of prevention
Universal and standard precaution
-
General anatomy and histology
Skeletal system
Muscular system
Nervous system
The brain
Circulatory system
Endocrine system
Digestive system
Respiratory system
Integumentary system
The reproductive system
-
Basic of chemistry
State of matter
Potential hydrogen
Solution, suspension, and emulsion
-
Basic of electricity
Electrotherapy
Tesla high frequency
Light energy
Light therapy
-
Basic of nutrient
Micronutrient and vitamins
Minerals
-
Physiology and histology of the skin
-
Disorder and diseases of the skin
-
Skin analysis
-
Skin care products, chemistry ingredients, and selection
-
Facial treatments
-
Facial machines
-
Advanced topics and treatments
tics
Printed in USA year 2021
Cengage learning
The list of all the chapters:
_________________________
Infection control principles and practices
Viruses
Principles of prevention
Universal and standard precaution
General anatomy and histology
Skeletal system
Muscular system
Nervous system
The brain
Circulatory system
Endocrine system
Digestive system
Respiratory system
Integumentary system
The reproductive system
Basic of chemistry
State of matter
Potential hydrogen
Solution, suspension, and emulsion
Basic of electricity
Electrotherapy
Tesla high frequency
Light energy
Light therapy
Basic of nutrient
Micronutrient and vitamins
Minerals
Physiology and histology of the skin
Disorder and diseases of the skin
Skin analysis
Skin care products, chemistry ingredients, and selection
Facial treatments
Facial machines
Advanced topics and treatments
ADY
Standard fundamentals esthetics
Printed in USA year 2021
Cengage learning
The list of all the chapters:
_________________________
-
Infection control principles and practices
Viruses
Principles of prevention
Universal and standard precaution
-
General anatomy and histology
Skeletal system
Muscular system
Nervous system
The brain
Circulatory system
Endocrine system
Digestive system
Respiratory system
Integumentary system
The reproductive system
-
Basic of chemistry
State of matter
Potential hydrogen
Solution, suspension, and emulsion
-
Basic of electricity
Electrotherapy
Tesla high frequency
Light energy
Light therapy
-
Basic of nutrient
Micronutrient and vitamins
Minerals
-
Physiology and histology of the skin
-
Disorder and diseases of the skin
-
Skin analysis
-
Skin care products, chemistry ingredients, and selection
-
Facial treatments
-
Facial machines
-
Advanced topics and treatments
MILADY BOOK REFERENCE AND CHAPTERS LIST The text the images and the videos presented are all based on the book MILADY Standard fundamentals esthetics Printed in USA year 2021 Cengage learning The list of all the chapters: _________________________ Infection control principles and practices Viruses Principles of prevention Universal and standard precaution General anatomy and histology Skeletal system Muscular system Nervous system The brain Circulatory system Endocrine system Digestive system Respiratory system Integumentary system The reproductive system Basic of chemistry State of matter Potential hydrogen Solution, suspension, and emulsion Basic of electricity Electrotherapy Tesla high frequency Light energy Light therapy Basic of nutrient Micronutrient and vitamins Minerals Physiology and histology of the skin Disorder and diseases of the skin Skin analysis Skin care products, chemistry ingredients, and selection Facial treatments Facial machines Advanced topics and treatments
1) INFECTION CONTROL: Infection control is essential to prevent disease and maintain a safe environment for both clients and technicians. Estheticians should understand and follow the instruction of the federal and the state rules and regulations and understand the chemistry of the cleaning and disinfecting products. In the USA, the federal and state agencies regulate the practice of esthetic, set guidelines for manufacturing, sale and use of equipment and chemical ingredients in the workplace. And regulate licensing enforcement. Federal agencies: Occupational safety and health administration (OSHA) This organization regulates and enforces safety standards to protect employees in the workplace. This organization created the “Hazard communication standard” which requires that chemical manufacturers and importers will issue a “Material safety data sheet” (MSDS) This will address issues of handling, mixing, storing and disposing of products. Environmental protection agency (EPA): They register all types of disinfectants sold and used in the USA. Disinfectants and chemicals that destroy all bacteria, fungi, and viruses on the surface (but not spores) means without opening. Hospital disinfectants: They are effective in cleaning blood and body fluids on nonporous means have no pores or openings. Tuberculocidal disinfectants: Tuberculosis is a disease caused by bacteria that are transmitted through coughing or sneezing. Those products are effective and powerful, but they can be harmful to salon equipment and tools. They need special care and special methods of disposal. EPA – Registration number: The EPA registration number, certified that the disinfectant may be used in the manner prescribed by the manufacturer’s label. Using the product, accordingly, will ensure their efficacy. Efficacy means the capacity to achieve the desired results. Laws and rules: Laws are written by both federal and state legislators that determine the scope of the practice. Laws also known as “Statutes” Rules and regulation are written by the regulatory agency of the state board. They are more specific than law. Infection control: Are the methods used to eliminate or reduce the transmission of infectious organisms? Potentially harmful organisms. Bacteria Viruses Fungi Parasites Infectious disease is caused by Pathogenic organisms that enter the body. The products used to destroy pathogenic organism: Bactericidal – Means, capable of destroying bacteria. Virucidal – Means, capable of destroying viruses Fungicidal – means, capable of destroying fungi. Bacteria: It’s a one celled microorganism that has both plant and animal characteristics. Some bacteria are harmful, and some are harmless. Bacteria can be seen only under the microscope. They can exist almost anywhere, Skin, water, in the air, environmental surfaces, in the body secretion, clothing nails and more. They are many types of bacteria, divided into 2 categories: Pathogenic, means harmful (causing disease) and Nonpathogenic, means harmless (not causing disease). Some of the nonpathogenic bacteria are beneficial to our body. Classifications of pathogenic bacteria: Staphylococci: Are pus-forming bacteria that grow in clusters, like branches of grapes. They cause abscess, pustules, and boils, food poisoning and a range of diseases like “methicillin staphylococcus aureus” disease (MRSA). MRSA appears as a skin infection such as pustules, rashes and boils and can be difficult to cure. Streptococci: Are pus-forming bacteria, arranged in curved lines, resembling a string of beads. They cause infection, such as strep throat and blood poisoning. Diplococci: Are spherical bacteria that grow in pairs and cause disease such as pneumonia. Bacilli: They are the most common bacteria and produce disease, such as Tetanus, Typhoid fever, Tuberculosis and Diphtheria. Spirilla: Are spiral or corkscrew- shaped bacteria. They are subdivided into subgroups – Syphilis, which is a sexual disease and Lyme disease. Movement of bacteria: Different bacteria move in different ways. Cocci: Rarely show active (motility). It means, self-movement. They are transmitted in the air, dust, or within the substance in which they settle. Bacilli and spirilla, are both capable of movement and use slender hairlike extensions, called, “Flagella” for moving. Cilia; Are shorter than flagella. Both, flagella and cilia move cells, but in a different motion. Flagella, move in a snake-like motion. Cilia, move in a rowing like motion. The life cycle of bacteria consists of two phases: The active. Also known as, vegetative. And the inactive. Also known as, “spore forming”. The active stage: The bacteria grow and reproduce. When they reach their largest size, they divide into two new cells. This division is called, “Binary fissions” or “Mitosis”. The 2 new cells are called daughter cells. During the inactive spore-forming stage, certain bacteria coat themselves with wax-like outer shells. These bacteria can withstand long periods of famine, dryness and unstable temperature. In this stage, they stay dormant. But will become active again, under favorable conditions. Bacterial infection is possible only with the presence of pathogenic bacteria. When disease spreads from one person to another person, it’s said to be a “contagious disease” also known as (aka), communicable disease. To avoid contagious disease, it is also important not to perform services if the client’s Skin, scalp, neck, hands or feet show visible signs of abrasion or infection, and to clean properly and disinfect everything that touches the client before reuse. Or throw it away after use. Skin inflammation – Dermatitis: Tissue inflammation aka is a condition in which the body reacts to injury, irritation or inflammation. Inflammation is characterized by redness, heat, pain, and swelling. Pius is a fluid created by inflammation. It contains white blood cells, bacteria and dead cells. Local infection aka “Acute” or short duration. Such as pimple, abscess It’s confined to a particular part of the body and appears as a lesion containing pus.
- VIRUSES Virus is a parasitic submicroscopic particle that infects and resides in the cells of a biological organism. Virus is capable of replication only through taking over the host cell’s reproductive function. The difference between viruses and bacteria is that a virus can live and reproduce only by taking over other cells and becoming part of them, while bacteria can live and reproduce on their own. Bacterial infection can be treated with antibiotics. But antibiotics are not effective against viruses. In fact, viruses are hard to kill without harming the body’s own cells in the process. Many vaccinations prevent viruses’ infections. Bloodborne disease-causing microorganisms’ pathogens: That are carried in the body by blood or body fluids, such as “Hepatitis and “HIV” Estheticians are not allowed to cut or remove live tissue. This is outside the scope of the estheticians’ license and approved practices. But in our practice, we perform services such as, Microdermabrasion, extraction, tweezing, waxing and working with postoperative patients. Therefore, we must be aware of the bloodborne microorganisms. Human papillomavirus (HPV). Aka “Plantar warts”. This virus can infect the bottom of the foot and resembles small black dots. Usually appears in clustered groups. It is highly contagious and very difficult to treat. Clients with suspicious symptoms need to be referred to a physician and not be treated by estheticians. Hepatitis: It’s a bloodborne virus that causes disease that can damage the liver. Hepatitis can be present in all body fluids and can live on a surface outside the body for a long time. The 3 types of hepatitis. (A, B, C) that are concerned in salons, spas, or medical facilities. Hepatitis “B” is the most difficult to kill on a surface. So, check the label of the disinfectant that you use If your product is effective against hepatitis “B” . HIV/AIDS: Human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). Acquired immune deficiency syndrome (AIDS). It’s a disease that breaks down the body’s immune system. HIV is spread from person to person through blood and less often, through other body fluids. It’s possible to be infected for many years without symptoms, but testing can determine whether a person is infected within six months after exposure to the virus. HIV is spread mainly through the sharing needles by intravenous and unprotected sexual contact. But less likely to infect, through cuts and sores, holding hands, hugging, kissing, sharing food or casual contact during hair, skin, nail and pedicure. Fungi: Are microscopic plant parasites. They are also called “vegetable parasites”. Fungi includes molds, mildews and yeasts. They can be contagious, such as: Ringworm, also known as Tinea. Mildew, Effects plants or grows on inanimate objects. Most fungi are nonpathogenic, and they live on our body as a part of our natural flora. When they infect the body, they usually infect the skin as they live off from keratin. The most basic cause of fungal infections are “dermatophytes”, that cause skin, nail, and hair infections. Common type of fungal infections: Tinea pedis – A “ringworm” fungus of the foot AKA “Athlete’s foot”. Onychomycosis – A nails infection Folliculitis barbae, sycosis barbae, or barber’s itch; It’s an inflammation of the hair follicles, caused by a bacterial infection from ingrown hair. It’s primarily limited to the bearded areas of the face, neck, or around the scalp. Tinea versicolor AKA sun spot: Are characterized by white or varicolored patches on the skin. Intertrigo: Infection found in the body folds of the skin. Live underarms and groin. Candida albicans; A yeast that thrives in dark, moisture-rich environments. Parasites: Are organisms that grow, feed, and shelter on , or in another organism (A host) , while contributing nothing to the host. They must have a host to survive. Can be found in plants and trees, water, and foods. Such as fish or meat, that may cause internal parasites. External parasites that affect humans on or in the skin. Include ticks, fleas, and mites. Head lice – one condition caused by head lice is called “pediculosis capitis”. It’s a contagious skin disease and is caused by “Itch mite” which burrows under the skin. Remember: Disease and conditions should be referred and treated only by doctors. Immunity: Is the ability of the body to destroy and resist infection. We have “Natural immunity”- Which is partly inherited and partly developed through healthy living. Acquired immunity; Is immunity that the body will develop after recovering from a disease. Through inoculation means (vaccination), Or through exposure to allergens such as pollen.
- PRINCIPLES OF PREVENTION: Decontamination: Is the removal of blood or other potentially infectious material on items and removal of visible debris or residue, such as dust, hair, and skin. There are 2 methods of decontamination. Method 1. Cleaning and then disinfecting with appropriate EPA – registered disinfectant. Method 2. Cleaning and then sterilizing. This method is used in doctors and hospitals facilities, but it is less needed in spas and salons. Spas and salons mostly use the cleaning and disinfecting method. The disinfecting products remove all microorganisms on the surface that has no opening ( non-porous) . Cleaning and sterilizing, removes all microorganisms. Also, on porous (with pores, or opening) like sponges. Disinfectants are not for use on human skin. On human skin, we use “Antiseptic”. They are safe for the skin, or soap and water. Mixing disinfectants. Always add the disinfectant to the water when mixing. And always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper dilution and the contact time. Safety glasses and gloves should be worn to avoid accidental contact with eyes and skin. Always use disinfectant that is approved by the “EPA” and carries EPA – Registration number. Contact time means the time that is needed for the disinfectant to be on subject. Efficacy: Is the ability to produce an effect. The ideal disinfectant: Maintain efficacy in the presence of – Bioburden. Bioburden is the number of viable organisms on or in an object before decontamination or sterilizatio Changed after a longer length of time.Be inexpensive. Be nontoxic and non irritating. Includes strips for checking effectiveness Be readily available from multiple manufacturers Be EPA approved Be environmentally friendly. Have no odor. Be noncorrosive When salon and spa implement, accidentally contact blood, body fluids, or unhealthy conditions, they should be cleaned and then completely immersed in an EPA-Registered hospital disinfectant solution that shows effectiveness against HIV, Hepatitis, and Tuberculosis. They also can be immersed in a 10% bleach solution. Always wear gloves and follow the proper universal protocol for cleaning up after an exposure incident. Disinfectants appropriate for salon use: Choose the correct disinfectant for your specific needs. Be aware of the different types of disinfectants and the use that are recommended for salon or spa. Some are made to be used on tools and some on non-porous surfaces. Quaternary ammonium compounds AKA (also known as) “quats” are very effective. The most advanced type is called, “Multiple quats”. Quats solution usually disinfects implements in 10 minutes. These formulas may contain anti rust ingredients. Phenolic disinfectants: Are powerful tuberculocidal disinfectants. They are a form of formaldehyde. Have a very high pH But they can cause certain metals to rust. It’s important to take extra care while dealing with phenolic disinfectants Because, phenolics are known as carcinogenic (causing cancer). Bleach – household: Bleach contains 5.25% sodium hypochlorite. It’s an effective Disinfectant and has been used extensively in the salon. But, using too much bleach can damage some material and plastic, and can be corrosive to metals and plastic. May also cause skin and eyes irritation and damage. Bleach can be irritating to the lungs. Store bleach away from heat and light. Disinfectant safety. Disinfectants are pesticides (a type of poison) and can cause serious skin and eye damage. Use caution and follow safety instructions. Keep as MSDS (material safety data sheet) on hand for the disinfectant . Wear gloves and safety glasses when mixing disinfectants. Avoid skin and eye contact. Always add the disinfectant to the water and never add the water to the disinfectant. Use tongs, gloves, or draining basket to remove implements from disinfectants Keep disinfectants out of the reach of children. Carefully measure and use disinfectant according to the label instructions. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing, using, and disposing of disinfectants. Replace the disinfectant solution every day or more often if the solution becomes soiled, or contaminated, and follow the manufacturer’s direction regarding safety Storing them 10.Never let quats, phenols, bleach, or any disinfectant encounter your skin. If It happened, wash with soap and water immediately. 11.All containers should be labeled. Disinfectants containers, must be covered But not airtight. Jars or containers used to disinfect implements, are incorrectly call “wet sanitizers” Those Items should be cleaned and disinfected according to the instructions of the manufacturers. Disinfecting work surfaces: All surfaces must be cleaned before serving each client. Including every point Of contact that you may have touched after having exposure to a client's skin. Cross contamination: Touching the client’s skin or contaminated items, such as, used tissue, or used tweezers without being cleaned and disinfected and then touching clean items. You may contaminate the clean item. For the safeties of your client, you must maintain “Aseptic procedure” It’s the process of properly handling sterilized and disinfected equipment and Supplies to reduce contamination. Cleaning towels and linens: All linens should be used once and then, cleaned by laundering with detergent and bleach. Soiled laundry should be folded into itself. Laundry should be done every day and stored in a clean closed closet. The laundry bins are to be cleaned daily with disinfectant. Dispensary: Is the area where we store all products used in the salon. It should be in a convenient central location for staff members, and away from heat and sunlight. Hand washing – Sanitation: Washing hands is very important. Antimicrobial and bacterial soap can dry the skin. Medical studies suggest that they are not more effective than regular soaps or detergents. Hand sanitizers: Antiseptics are formulated for use on the skin. They are registered and regulated by the FDA.
2) GENERAL ANATOMY & HISTOLOGY Estheticians focus primarily on the muscles, bones, nerves and circulation of the head, face, neck, arms, and hands. Understanding this anatomy and physiology will help you perform your work safely. Anatomy- is the study of the structures of the body that can be seen in naked eyes Histology – is the study of the small, microscopic structures found in the human body Physiology- is the study of the functions and activities performed by the body structure. Every tissue of the body is composed of human cells CELL: The basic unit of all living things. The basic structure of the cell – the cell of all living things is composed of a substance called “Protoplasm” which is a colorless jelly like substance in which food elements like protein, fat, carbohydrates, minerals, salt, and water are present. It’s like the clear gel of the Egg. In addition: to Protoplasm, most cells include a Nucleus. An Organelle {small organ}, Cytoplasm, and Cell Membrane. The Nucleus: Is the dense protoplasm found in the center of the cell. It's an important part in cell reproduction and metabolism. Within the nucleus is the Nucleoplasm which is a fluid that contains protein, and an important acid – The DNA {Deoxyribonucleic Acid}. DNA is what determines our genetic characters. The Cytoplasm: It’s the protoplasm of the cell, except that is found in the nucleus. The cell Membrane: Is the envelope that encloses the protoplasm and permits selective substances to enter and leave the cell. The cell can reproduce new cells for the growth and replacement of worn or injured ones. The cell reproduction occurs when the cell divides into 2 Daughter cells. The process is called “MITOSIS”. So, we have A mother cell that divides and produces two daughter cells. Cell Metabolism – is a chemical process in living organisms. That’s how the cells are nourished. Anabolism – Is the process of building UP larger molecules from smaller ones. It allows the body to store water, food, oxygen for the cells to grow and repair. Catabolism – Is the process of breaking DOWN complex compounds within the cells into smaller ones. This process releases energy for body activities like, in muscles, heart, body secretion Tissues: It’s a collection of similar cells that perform a particular and specific function. There are 4 types of tissues in the body: Connective Tissue – Support, protect and bind together other tissues. For example, bones, cartilage, ligaments, fat are also called “Adipose tissue”. Which gives smoothness and contour to the body. Epithelial Tissue - Is the covering on the surface that protects the organ. For example: The skin, mucous membranes, the lining of the heart, digestive, and respiratory organs and the glands. Muscle Tissue – Contracts and moves parts of the body. Nerve Tissues – Carries messages to and from the brain and controls all bodily functions. Nerve tissues are composed of cells called “Neurons” which makes up the nerves, brain and spinal cord. Organ and body system: Organs: are structures composed of specialized tissues that perform a specific function. Like the brain, eyes, heart, lungs… Body systems: The body has 11 body systems which are groups of organs acting together to perform functions. The 11 System: Skeleton Muscular Nervous Circulatory Lymphatic Endocrine Digestive Excretory Respiratory Integumentary Reproductive
- THE SKELETAL SYSTEM: Forms the physical foundation of the body. The skeleton system provides the shape of the body, support and protection. Allowing bodily movement, producing blood, storing calcium. OS is Bones Osteology: Is the study of the bones The skeleton has 206 bones. It’s the farmwork to which softer tissues and organs of the body are attached. Muscles connected to bones by Tendons. Bones are connected to each other by Ligaments. The join is a meeting between the bones. Bones of the skull: The human head contains 22 bones. Divided into 2 groups: The Cranium and the Facial bones The Cranium – It’s an oval bony case that protects the brain formed by 8 bones. The skull has many small openings in it’s base for cranial nerves. The face consists of 14 bones. The 8 bones of the cranium : Occipital – is the hindmost bone of the skull above the nape. The Parietal – Form the 2 sides and the crown of the cranium The Frontal – Forms the forehead. The temporal – Form the 2 sides of the head in the ear region. The Ethmoid – Light spongy bone between the eye socket that forms part of the nasal cavities. The Sphenoid – Join all the bones of the cranium together. The 14 bones of the Face: 2 Nasal bones – Forms the bridge of the nose 2 Lacrimal bones – The smallest and most fragile bones of the face socket. 2 Zygomatic bones- Also known as malar bones or cheekbones, form the prominence of the cheeks. 2 Maxillary bones – Forms the upper jaw 1 Mandible bone – form the lower jawbone. It’s the largest and stronger bones of the face 2 Turbinal bones – These are thin layers of spongy bones on either of the outer walls of the nasal depression 1 The Vomer – Is a flat thin bone that forms part of the nasal septum 2 Palatine b the ones – Forms the hard palate of the mouth Bones of the Neck: The Hyoid – A U-shaped bone at the base of the tongue that supports the tongue and its muscles. The Cervical vertebrae – The 7 bones of the top part of the vertebral column located in the neck. Bones of the chest – Bones Thorax - the Trunk or the torso: Thorax – The chest consisting of the Sternum, Ribs, and Thomistic vertebrae. It’s an elastic bony cage. Ribs – 12 Pairs of bones forming of the Thorax. Scapula _ Also known as Shoulder blade. They are 2 Sternum – also known as breastbone. The flat bone that forms the ventral support of the ribs. Clavicle – Also known as Collarbone. The bone that joins the sternum and the scapula. Bones of the arms and the hands. Humereus – Is the uppermost and largest bone of the arm. Extending from the elbow to the shoulder. The Ulna – The inner and largest bone of the lower arm. Located on the side of the little finger. The Radius – Is the smaller bone of the lower arm on the same side of the thumb The Carpus – Or Wrist. A flexible joint composed of 8 bones The Metacarpus – It’s the palm of the hand Yhe Phalanges – Also known as the digits. Are the bones of the fingers.
- THE MUSCULAR SYSTEM: Myology – Is the study of the structure, function and disease of muscles. The muscular system – Covers, shapes and supports the skeleton. The human body has over 630 muscles. They are 3 types of muscles tissue Striated – Also known as skeletal or voluntary They are controlled by the will. Non striated – Also known as voluntary muscle, visceral muscle or smooth muscle. They function automatically like the digestive, circulatory system and Internal organs. Cardiac muscle – This type of muscle is unique only to the heart. They are involuntary But their shape is striated. The muscle has 3 parts: The origin – Is the fixed part close to the skeleton which flexes but remain stationary The belly – Is the middle part of the muscle The insertion – That’s the movable attachment and farthest from the skeleton. The massage is directed from the insertion toward the origin. Muscular tissue can be stimulated by rays, moist, heat, nerve impulses, chemicals, certain acids and salts. Muscles of the sculpt: The Epicranius – Also known as the occipitofrontalis. Is the brood muscle that covers the top of the skull. It consists of two parts. Occipitalis and frontalis. The Occipitalis – Is the back of the epicranius is the muscle that draws the scalp backward. The Frontalis – It’s the muscle that raises the eyebrows. Draws the scalp forward, causes wrinkles in the forehead. The Epicranial Aponeurosis – Is a tendon connecting the occipitalis and the frontalis. The Auricularis Superior – Above the ear The Auricularis Anterior - In front of the ear The Auricularis Posterior – Behind the ear Muscles of chewing: Masseter, Temporalis, Medial and Lateral Pterygoid. Muscles of the neck: Platysma, Sternocleidomastoid, scalenus. Muscles of the eyebrow: The Corrugator – Draws the eyebrows down and wrinkles the forehead vertically. The Orbicularis oculi – Muscle of the eye socket. Close and open the eyes. The procerus – Above the nose between the eyebrows. Causes wrinkles across the bridge of the nose. The Nasalis – Muscles that covers the nose Muscles of the mouth: Orbicularis oris – Around the mouth Risorius, Buccinator, Triangularis, Mentalis, Zygomatics Major and minor. Muscles that attach the arms to the body: Latissimus dorsi – Covers the lower back. Large and flat Pectoralis major and minor – Assist the swinging movement of the arm Serratus Anterior – Assist in breathing and raising the hand. Muscles of the shoulders and arms: The Trapezius – Covers the back of the neck, shoulders, upper and middle back. The Biceps – Contour of the front and inner of the upper arm. Lift the forearm, flex the elbow, turn the palms outward. The Deltoid – Covering the shoulders The Triceps – Covers the entire back of the upper arm. The Extensor – Straighten the wrist, hand and finger. The Flexor – Involve in flexing the wrist The Pronator – Turn the hand inward and the palm upward. The muscles of the Hand: Abductors – Opens the hand to separate the fingers. Adductors – Draw the fingers together.
- THE NERVOUS SYSTEM: The nervous system is responsible for coordinating all the activities that are performed by the body. Every square inch of our body is supplied with fine fibers known as Nerves. The nerves cells known as “Neurons” Neurology is the science of the structure, function and pathology of the nervous system. Division of the nervous system: The central nervous system – Consist of the brain, spinal cord, spinal nerves and cranial nerves. It controls consciousness and many mental activities, voluntary functions of the 5 senses and voluntary muscle action including all body movements and facial expressions. The peripheral nervous system – Is a system that connects the peripheral parts of the body to the central nervous system. It has both sensory and motor nerves. It carries impulses from and to the central nervous system. The Autonomic nervous system – It controls the involuntary muscles. Regulates the action of smooth muscles, glands, blood vessels, heart and berthing. The peripheral nervous system is divided into 2 sections: The Afferent peripheral system. It means sensory. The Efferent peripheral system. It means the motor peripheral system. The Efferent – There are 2 subcategories. The somatic nervous system which causes us to react to the external environment. And the autonomic nervous system which is responsible for the internal regulation of impulse from the central nervous system to smooth muscles. Such as heart, glands, blood vessels. This system is considered involuntary. Autonomic nervous system is divided into 2: The sympathetic division and the Parasympathetic division. The sympathetic division stimulates and prepares the body for stressful situations. The parasympathetic division operates under normal, no stressful conditions. Help calming and slowing down activities. And keep the body in balance.
- THE BRAIN: The brain is the largest and most complex mass of nerve tissue in the body. The spinal cord is a continuation of the brain stem and originated in the brain. It’s protected by the spinal column. 31 pairs of spinal nerves extending from the spinal cord and distributed to the muscles and skin of the trunk and limbs. Nerve cells structure and function: The nerve cell is called the Neuron. The dendrites are nerve fibers extending from the neuron that receive impulses from the other neurons. Axon sends impulses away from the cell body to other neurons, glands or muscles. Nerves have their origin in the brain and spinal cord and send their branches to all parts of the body. Sensory nerve – Afferent: Carry impulses from the sense organ to the brain, such as cold, heat, touch, pain, sight, hearing, taste, smell and pressure. Sensory nerve ending called Receptors – Are located close to the surface of the skin. Impulses pass from the sensory nerves to the brain and back through the motor nerves to the muscles. Resulting in movement of the muscles. Motor nerves – Efferent: Carries impulses from the brain to the muscles or the glands. These transmitted impulse movements. A Reflex : Is an automatic nerve reaction to a stimulus that involves the movement of an impulse from the sensory receptor. From the Afferent nerve to the sp9nal cord. And a response back along the Efferent nerve to the muscle Reflexes are Automatic , involuntary.
- THE CIRCULATORY SYSTEM: Circulatory system also known as cardiovascular system or vascular system. It consists of The heart, arteries, veins, and capillaries for the distribution of blood through the body. The heart: The heart is referred to as the body pump. It's a muscular cone-shaped organ that keeps the blood moving through the circulatory system. It is enclosed by the Pericardium and its size is about a closed fit, approximately 9 once. Normally, in the resting stage, the heart beats 72 to 80 times per minute. The interior of the heart contains 4 chambers and 4 valves. The upper chambers are thin walled, and they are called “Atrium”. Right and left. The lower chambers are thick walled, and they are called “Ventricle” right and left. With each contraction and relaxation of the heart, the blood flows in, travels from the atria to the ventricle and to the body. 2 Systems attend to the blood circulation: The pulmonary circulation and the systemic circulation. Pulmonary circulation – sends the blood from the heart to the lungs to be oxygenated. The blood flows from the right atrium to the right ventricle through the tricuspid valve and to the lungs. Systemic circulation – Also known as general circulation. Carries the oxygenated blood from the heart through the body and back to the heart. The blood flows from the left atrium to the left ventricle through the bicuspid and from the ventricle to the aorta. Blood vessels: They are tube-line structures. Includes the arteries, arterioles, capillaries, venules, and veins. Their function is to transfer blood to and from the heart and then, to all the body. Arteries – Thick walled, muscular, flexible tubes that carry oxygenated blood away from the heart to the smaller arteries called arterioles. The largest artery in the body is the aorta. The aorta is connected to the heart. The capillaries – Tiny thin-walled blood vessels that connect the smaller arteries to the veinules. The capillaries bring blood to the cells and carry away wast materials. Venules – Are small veins. They collect the blood from the capillaries to the veins Veins – Thin walled blood vessels that are less elastic than arteries. They contain cup-like valves that allow the flowing of the blood in one direction, back to the heart and lungs for cleaning and to pick up oxygen. The Blood: The blood is a nutritive fluid circulating through the circulatory system and is considered connective tissue. There are 8 to 10 pins of blood in the human body. About, 1 twentieth of the human weight. The blood is approximately 83 percent water. It is sticky and salty. Normal temperature is 98.6 Fahrenheit {36 degrees Celsius}. The composition of the blood : Red blood cells – Also known as Red corpuscles or “Erythrocytes” , are produced in the bone marrow. They contain hemoglobin. A complex of Iron protein. Their main function is to bring oxygen to the body cells. White blood – Also known as White corpuscles of, “Leukocytes”, perform the function of destroying disease causing germs. Platelets – Also known as Thrombocytes . Are small and they contribute to the blood clotting process which stops bleeding. Plasma ;Is the fluid part of the blood. In which the red and the white blood cells and platelets flow. It’s about 90 per cent water and contains protein, sugar, and oxygen. They carry food and secretions to the cells and take carbon dioxide away from the cells, Lymphatic / Immune system: They protect the body from disease by developing immunities and destroying disease causing microorganisms. Lymph is a colorless, watery fluid derived from the blood plasma through the capillaries to the tissues. The lymphatic system also provides immunities to the body and drains tissues of excess interstitial fluid. It carries waste and impurity away from the cells. The primary functions of the lymphatic system are : 1.Act as a defense against bacteria and toxin 2. To remove waist material from the body cells to the blood 3. To aid in reducing swelling, inflammation and accumulation in the blood vessels.
- THE DIGESTIVE SYSTEM system: The digestive system, also called the Gastrointestinal system. Is responsible of Changing food into nutrients and waste. Digestive enzymes are chemicals that change certain kinds of food into a form that can be used by the body and can be transported by the blood to the body’s cells and tissues. The 5 basic activities of the digestive system: Eating or Ingestion Moving the food along the digestive tract known as “Peristalsis” Breakdown of food by mechanical and chemical known as Digestion Absorption of the digested food into the circulatory system for transporting to the cells and tissues. Elimination of waste from the body is known as Defecation. The Excretory system: This system is responsible for purifying the body by eliminating waste matter. The organs that play a crucial role in the excretory system are: The kidney – Excrete urine The Liver – Excrete bile The Skin – Excrete sweat and sebum The Large Intestine – Eliminates decomposed and undigested food. The Lungs – Exhale carbon dioxide.
- THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM: The respiratory system enables breathing and consists of the lungs and air passages. The Lungs are spongy tissues composed of microscopic cells, in which Inhaled air is exchanged for carbon dioxide. During Inhalation (Breathing), oxygen is absorbed into the blood. During Exhalation (Breathing out), Carbon dioxide is expelled from the Lungs.
- THE INTEGUMENTARY SYSTEM: This system is made up of the skin, the sweat glands, the sebum glands (oil), the sensory receptors, the hair and the nails. The word Integumentary means covering. So, you think of the skin as a covering that protects the body from outside elements, such as germs, chemicals, sun exposure.
- THE REPRODUCTIVE SYSTEM This system includes the ovaries, uterine tubes, uterus, and vagina in the female. And testes, prostate gland and the urethra in the male. It performs the function of producing children. This system in females produces the hormone Estrogen and, in the male, the hormone Testosterone. These hormones affect and change the skin in several ways as we age. Acne, loss of collagen and elastin, loss of scalp hair, facial hair growth and color, and changes in skin pigmentation (melasma).
3) BASIC OF CHEMISTRY: As an esthetician you will work with chemistry every day. The skin is made of chemicals. The cosmetic products are made of chemicals. The effects of cosmetics and skin care products are based on how the skin reacts to chemicals and understanding how different chemicals affect the skin will allow you to choose the right product for your clients. Chemistry is the science that deals with the composition, structure, and properties of matter and how matter changes under different conditions. There are 2 branches of chemistry: Organic and Inorganic. Organic chemistry – Is the study of substances that contain the element “carbon. All living things, or they ever have been alive. If it’s plant or animal contains carbon, they belong to organic chemistry. Gasoline, plastics, synthetic fabrics, pesticides, and fertilizers are all organic. Organic compounds are flammable and will burn. Inorganic chemistry. It’s the branch that deals with compounds that do not contain carbon. They may contain the element “Hydrogen”. Inorganic substances are not flammable and will not burn. Because they don’t contain the element carbon. Matter: Matter is any substance that occupies space and has mass (weight). All matter has physical and chemical properties and exist in the form of Solid, Liquid, and Gaz. Since matter is made from chemicals, everything made from matter is a chemical. Matter has physical properties that we can touch, smell, taste or see. Not everything that we can see matters. For instance, We can see visible light and electric sparks, but these are forms of energy and energy does not matter. Energy does not occupy space or have physical property, like mass Elements: Element is the simplest form of chemical matter It cannot be broken down into a simpler substance without a loss of identity. There are about 90 natural occurring elements. All with its own distinctive physical and chemical properties. All matter in the universe is made up, of one or more of these 90 different elements Each element is identified by a letter symbol such as, O for oxygen, C for carbon, H for hydrogen, N for nitrogen and S for sulfur. Atoms Atoms are the particles from which matter is composed. An Atom is the smallest particle of an element that still retains the properties of that element. The atom of each element is different in structure from the atoms of all other elements. All the atoms of the same element are Identical. Atom consists of smaller particles: Protons – Which have a positive electrical charge Neutrons – With a neutral electrical charge Electron – With a negative electrical charge. The number of the protons in an atom is equal to the number of electrons. Molecule: Molecule is a joining of 2 or more atoms chemically. For example, water is made of hydrogen atoms and oxygen atoms Carbon dioxide is made of carbon and oxygen. Elemental molecules: An Element molecule is a joining of 2 or more atoms of the same element that are united chemically. For example, the oxygen in the air we breathe. It’s the element molecule of O2 (2 oxygen). The Ozone that protects us from ultraviolet radiation is the elemental molecule O3, composition of oxygen Atoms. Compound molecules: Also known as compounds: That’s a chemical combination of 2 or more atoms of different elements For example, Sodium chloride, which is table salt, (Naci). It contains 1 atom of element sodium Na, and 1 atom of the element chlorine CI.
- STATE OF MATTER: All matter exists in one of three different physical forms; Solid, Liquid, Gaz. The difference in these physical forms depends on the temperature. Water (H2O) compound of 2 hydrogen and 1 oxygen. Like most other substances, it can exist in all 3 states of matter, depending on the temperature. The form of water is different, due to a change of state, but it is still (H2O) it’s not a different chemical. It’s the same chemical in a different physical form. This is called, Physical change. The 3 different states of matter have the following distinct characteristics: Solid - Have a definite size and definite shape (ice) Liquid – Have a definite size (volume) but not a definite shape(water) Gaz – Do not have a definite size or a definite shape (steam is gazes’ water). Physical and chemical properties of water Physical properties: Are characteristics that can be determined without a chemical reaction and that do not cause a chemical change in the identity of substance. Physical properties include Color, Odor, Weight, Density, Specific gravity. Melting point, boiling point and hardness. Chemical properties: Are characteristics that can be determined only with a chemical reaction and that cause a chemical change in the identity of the substance. For example, rusting iron, or burning wood. In both, the chemical reaction is known as Oxidation. The addition of oxygen or the loss of hydrogen, creates a chemical change in the identity of the substance. The Iron is chemically changed to rust. The wood is chemically changed to ash. Hydrogen (H): It’s the lightest element known that is found in chemicals. It’s colorless, odorless, and tasteless. Element Hydrogen is Flammable and explosive when mixed with air. A combination of Hydrogen is found in water as (H2O) 2 hydrogen 1 Oxygen, And in many other substances. Oxygen (O): The most abundant element found on earth. Is colorless, odorless, tasteless gas. It comprises about half of the earth crust. Half of the rock, and one-fifth of the Air. And 90% of the water. It combines with many other elements to form an infinite variety of compounds, called Oxides. It can support “combustion” Combustion: Is a chemical process in which a substance reacts rapidly with oxygen and releases heat. Or releases energy in the form of heat and light. The products of the reaction are called “Oxides”. Nitrogen (N): Is a colorless gaseous element. It makes up about four-fifths of the Air in our atmosphere. It’s found in the form of Ammonia and Nitrates. Air: The gaseous that makes our atmosphere. It’s colorless, odorless, and generally, composed of 1 part oxygen and 4 parts nitrogen by volume. Also, small amounts of carbon dioxide, ammonia and organic matter, which are all essential to plant and animal life. Water (H2O) Is the most abundant of all substances, comprising about 75% of the planet earth’s surface and about 65% of the human body. Water makes up a large part of the skin; all cells require water to live. Even dying cells on our skin contain water. Most of the cosmetic ingredients contain water. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) Is colorless liquid with odor and slightly acid taste. It’s used in spas, salons, and skin care clinics. It can be used as an antiseptic and in hair coloring developments.
- Potential Hydrogen (pH) The (pH) scale is a measure of the acidity and alkalinity of a substance. The pH scale has a range of 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. pH below 7 is an acidic solution. pH above 7 is an alkaline, also known as a base solution. The p represents the quantity (in small letter), The H (in big letter) represents the letter Hydrogen. Pure water is neutral 7. So, the pH symbol represents the quantity of hydrogen Ions. Understanding pH and how it affects the hair, nail and the skin is essential in all salon and spa services. Water and pH: Understanding the pH, requires that we learn the term “Ion”. An Ion is an atom molecule that carries an electrical charge. Ionization: Causes an atom of molecule to Split in two. Creating a pair of Ions, with positive electrical charges and negative electrical charges. Only products containing water, can have ph. The pH is possible because of the Ionization. The water (H2O) molecule. Naturally Ionize into 1H hydrogen which carries a positive electrical charge (+). We call it “CATION”. And the second is, (HO) which is hydrogen with oxygen HYDROXIDE Ion. Which carries negative electrical charge (-). We call it “ANION”. The hydrogen is acidic. The more hydrogen Ions are in the substance, the more acidic it will be. Hydroxide is Alkaline. The more hydroxide Ions are in the substance, the more alkaline the substance will be. Our skin is slightly acidic, and the natural pH of the skin is 5.6 Our sweat and sebum create a barrier on the skin to protect the skin surface, Known as the “Acid mantle”. That protects the skin against bacteria and other microorganisms. Any condition that harms the acid mantle may expose the skin to dryness, dehydration, dermatitis (inflammation). Our task is to choose products for each individual client according to his skin condition and type. Neutralization reactions occur when acid is mixed with Alkaline (base). Testing products: To know the pH of the product, we can perform a test on a “litmus paper”. That’s a pH measurement scale. This scale start from 0 till 14. 0 – 6.9 is acidic and the color is red. The darker the red, the more acidic. 7 is neutral 7.1 – 14 is alkaline and the color is blue. The darker the blue, the more alkaline. The pH scale is logarithmic scale. It means that in the pH scale, a change of one whole number, represents a tenfold change in pH.
- SOLUTION SUSPENSION EMULSION: Solution: Is a uniform mixture of two or more mutually miscible substances that have small particles. For example, Mixing salt and water. The salt in this case is the “solute “and the water is the “solvent”. Because the salt is miscible when we mix it with water. Or alcohol and water Particles that are not miscible are called immiscible. Those are liquids that are not mutually miscible. Suspension: An unstable mixture of two or more immiscible substances. A while after mixing them together, they will separate. An example is Oil and vinegar. A salad dressing with oil suspended with vinegar. Emulsions: That’s a mixture of two or more immiscible substances united with the aid of a unifying subject. That will “emulsify” the substances and form an “emulsion”. An emulsion might be separated after a while, under different conditions. Surfactants: Are used to emulsify oil and water. The word surfactant is an acronym for “surface active agent”. The surfactant molecules have 2 parts that make the emulsification of oil and water possible. The head of the molecule is Hydrophilic (water loving) The tail of the molecule is lipophilic (oil loving) The hydrophilic, dissolves in water. The lipophilic, dissolves in oil. Two types of Emulsions are used in cosmetic preparations. Oil in Water O/W. And water with oil W/O Most of the skin products are emulsions of oil and water. They are easily washed with water. In a contact of the emulsion with the skin, the oil phase acts as external lubricant to smooth and protect the surface of the skin. The water phase restores the natural moisture of the epidermis, making the skin soft and smooth. O/W usually contains a small amount of oil and a greater amount of water. Salons and spas primarily use O/W emulsion. W/O usually contains a smaller amount of water and a greater amount of oil. Because the oil is in an external phase, these emulsions remove grim and help prevent moisture loss from the skin. We use moisturizers such as; cold cream, night cream, Massage cream. And when we need a thick oily rich cream.
4) THE BASIC OF ELECTRICITY: Esthetician should study and understand the basic of electricity because many devices operate with electricity. Esthetic electronic devices are routinely undergoing upgrades to newer versions that bring better results. Many devices became very essential in a modern salon. Electricity: We are not really seeing electricity, but it’s visual effects on the surrounding air, like A storm lightning or sparks after plugging an electric device. Electricity does not occupy space or have physical or chemical properties. Therefore, electricity is not a matter. Electricity is the movement of particles around an atom that creates pure energy. Electricity is a form of energy that when in motion, exhibits magnetic, chemical or thermal effects. Electric current: Is the flow of electricity along a conductor in a complete circuit. A conductor: Is any material that easily conducts electricity. The meaning is that electricity will pass through the conductor easily. Like metals. The copper is particularly a good conductor. An Insulator AKA nonconductor: Is substance that does not conduct electricity. Such as, rubbers, silk, wood, glass and cement. A complete electric circuit: Is the path of negative and positive electric current moving from the generating source through the conductor and back to the generating original source, or to the ground. Types of electric current: Direct current (DC): Is constant even flowing current that travels in one direction only. Such as, flashlights, cellular phones, cordless devices. They use batteries. A convertor: Is an apparatus that changes direct current to alternating current. Today, many devices contain convertors which allow us to use them without the use of an electrical wall outlet. Alternating current (AC): Is a rapid interrupted current. Flowing first in one direction and then in the opposite direction. This change in direction happens 60 times per second. Alternating currents produced by mechanical generators. Many devices are based on alternative current such as, hair dryer, magnifying lamps, microdermabrasion devices. A rectifier: Is an apparatus that changes alternative current into a direct current. Cordless electric clippers and mobile phone chargers use a rectifier to convert the AC into DC. Electrical measurement: A VOLT also known as voltage. Is the unit that measures the pressure or force that pushes the flow of electrons forwards through a conductor. Such as, the water pressure in the water hose. An AMPERE also known as Amp: Is the unit that measures the amount of an electric current (the number of electrons flowing through a conductor). The electric cord must be adjusted to the amount of the amp. For example, a hair dryer rated 12 amps, must have a cord that is twice as thick as one rated 5 amps. A higher number of amperes indicates a greater number of electrons and stronger current. A milliampere is one thousandth of an ampere. The current for the facial and scalp treatments is measured in milliampere. An ampere would be too strong and will damage the skin or body. An OHM: Is a unit that measures the resistance of an electric current. Current will not flow through a conductor, unless the force (volt) is stronger than the resistance. (ohm). Electrical equipment safety: To avoid electrical shock, burn, or fire, all electrical equipment should be inspected regularly to determine whether it is in safe working order. Safety devices: The wire needs to be large enough to carry the electric current passing through it. Otherwise, it will overheat and may cause a fire. They are 2 safety devices A fuse, and a circuit breaker. The fuse prevents excessive current from passing through a circuit. It is designed to blow out when the wire becomes too hot. This occurs when too many devices are connected to an electricity source. A circuit breaker is a switch that automatically shuts off an electric circuit while an overloud happens. Circuit breakers replaced the fuses in modern electric circuits. Grounding: It’s an important way of promoting electrical safety. All electronic appliances must have at least 2 or 3 electrical connections. The “live” connection supplies current to the circuit. The “ground” connection completes the circuit and carries the current safely away to the ground. The rectangular prongs of the plug are not identical. One is larger than the other. This will guarantee that the plug will be inserted only in one way. Guidelines for safe use of electrical equipment: All the electrical appliances you use should be UL certified. 2. Read the instructions carefully before using any kind of electrical equipment. Disconnect all appliances when not in use. Inspect all electrical equipment regularly Keep all wire, plugs, and electrical equipment in good repair. Use only one plug to each outlet, to avoid overloading. Unplug electrical devices or connections that get hot. Avoid contact with water and metal surfaces while using electricity and don’t handle electrical equipment with wet hands. Don’t leave your client unattended while being connected to an electrical device. Keep electrical cords off the floor and away from people's feet. Don’t attempt to clean around electric outlet while equipment is plugged Do not touch two metal objects at the same time if either is connected to an electric current. Don’t step or place objects on electrical cords. Don’t allow an electrical cord to become twisted. Disconnect appliances by pulling on the plug, not the cord. Do not attempt to repair electrical appliances unless you are qualified. Any problem with electrical devices should be held by the supervisor or electrician or repair representative immediately.
-ELECTROTHERAPY : Electrical facial treatments are referred to as “Electrotherapy”. The treatments are called “Modalities”. Each modality produces a different effect on the skin. An electrode also known as prob is an applicator for directing the electric current from the device to the client’s skin. Each modality has 2 electrodes. One negative, and one positive. Polarity: Indicates the negative or positive pole of an electric current. The positive is called “Anode”. It’s red and marked with a “P” or +. The negative electrode is called “Cathode”. It’s black and marked with a “N” or – Modalities: The primary modalities used in esthetics are, galvanic current, Microcurrent, and Tesla frequency current. Galvanic current: Is a constant and direct current (DC). It has a positive and negative pole and provides chemical changes when it passes through the tissues and fluids of the body. Two different chemical reactions are possible. The inactive electrode is the opposite electrode with the opposite pole from the active electrode. The effects produced are the opposite results that occur between the negative pole and the positive pole. Iontophoresis: Also known as Ionization. Is the process of introducing water soluble products into the skin with the use of electric current. “Cataphoresis: Refers to infusing a “positive” (acid) product into the skin. “Anaphoresis”: Is the process of infusing “negative” (alkaline) products into the skin. “Desincrustation”; Is a form of anaphoresis. This process is used to soften and emulsify grease deposits (the sebum) and comedones in the hair follicles. It’s used to treat acne, oily congested skin. Microcurrent: Is a low-level electricity that mirrors the own natural process of the electrical impulses of the body. It can be used for Iontophoresis, firming, toning, and soothing the skin. Can be effective by the following ways: 1.Improves blood and lymph circulation 2.Produces acidic and alkaline reactive. 3.Increases muscle tone. 4.Restores elasticity. 5.Reduces redness and inflammation. 6. Minimizes healing time in acne lesions 7.Improves barrier functions of the skin 8.Decreases metabolism that will increase the energy level in the cell (ATP) Adenosine triphosphate
- TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY: Also known as “violet ray” is a thermal (heat producing) current with a high rate of vibration. Used for facial and scalp treatments. The effect can be stimulating or soothing, depending on method of application. It stimulates blood circulation Increases elimination and absorption Increases metabolism Improves germicidal action Relieves congestion The contraindication of using Electrotherapy on clients: Pacemaker, heart conditions, high blood pressure Using multiple medication (with physician’s approval) Mental health disorders Epilepsy Bleeding disorders Open cuts, sores, pustular acne, or abrasions Diabetes Metal dental or facial implants. Including braces, pins, or plates Pregnancy Dilated capillaries Recent laser resurfacing or chemical peels (with a physician’s approval) Clients using Accutane or retinoids (with a physician’s approval) Cancer If you doubt about a condition, you can always ask for a release letter from the physician. The 2 methods for applying high frequency current. Direct surface application: The esthetician applies directly to the client’s skin the glass electrode. When removing the electrode from the skin, the esthetician should place her finger on the glass electrode to avoid sparking. Direct surface application is effective for healing and disinfecting acne. Indirect application: The client holds the electrode while the esthetician massages the client’s face With her hands. The esthetician should NOT hold the electrode. First, the client must hold the electrode firmly, and then, you can turn on the Current. For turning off, you should first turn off before removing the electrode From the client’s hand. method stimulates the cells without causing irritation that could occur with The direct application. It is beneficial for sensitive dehydrated skin.
- LIGHT ENERGY: Laser and led There are 3 types of “Electromagnetic” energy: Visible light, Invisible light, Infrared light and Ultraviolet radiation. The electromagnetic spectrum: Is a form of energy that travels through space in waves and has both electric and magnetic properties. Visible light: Is electromagnetic radiation that we can see. It’s also known as, “radiant energy” because it radiates energy through space on waves. You can imagine dropping a stone on a surface with water. The distance between the 2 peaks is called the wavelength. Long wavelengths have low frequency because they are long (travel long way), they have fewer waves (less frequent). Short wavelengths make more waves (more frequent). Invisible light: The two ends of the light spectrum have “Invisible light” that the naked human eye cannot see. Before the visible light, there is the violet lights, called the ultraviolet light The ultraviolet light is short. Therefore, it causes more frequency and less penetration. Beyond the visible red light is the Infrared light that produces heat. It’s the longest wavelength, therefore, has lower frequency and is more penetrating. We need sunlight to survive on the planet. Through a process called photosynthesis, green plants use sunlight to form carbohydrates from carbon dioxide and water then release oxygen. Sunlight is our ultimate source of energy, and it controls the weather. We Need small amount of sun exposure as the sun is beneficial in the production of vitamin D” but studies have shown that overexposure to the sun can cause skin damage, premature aging, and skin cancer. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation: Has shorter wavelength. Penetrates less and produces less heat than visible light does. UV produces chemical effects and kills germs. There are 3 types of ultraviolet radiation (UV) Ultraviolet A (UVA): has the longest wavelength and penetrates the dermis of the skin. Causing damage to the collagen and elastin. UVA is called the aging rays UVA is often used in tanning beds. Ultraviolet B (UVB): Is called the burning ray because it’s most associated with sunburns. UVA and UVB light causes skin cancer. Ultraviolet C (UVC): Is blocked by the “ozone” layer that protects our planet from UVC radiation. If the earth loses the protection of the ozone, life will no longer exist as we know it. UVC radiation will burn planet earth.
- LIGHT THERAPY also known as Phototherapy: Is the application of light rays to the skin for the treatment of acne, wrinkles, capillaries, pigmentation, and hair removal. Laser and light therapy. (phototherapy) devices: Laser and light therapy have been used for decades. There are some differences between lasers and other light therapies. The most significant difference is that lasers are designed to focus all the light-power with the same color to a specific depth, in one direction. Other light therapies will have multiple colors, depth, and wavelengths and the light may be scattered. The most important point to know about light therapy is that the equipment you use is selected based on the skin type and condition you are treating. Laser is an acronym that stands for, Light Amplification Stimulated Emission of Radiations. There are many kinds of lasers to treat a variety of conditions but all the lasers work by selective “photo thermolysis”. It’s a process that turns light from the laser into heat depending on what we choose to treat. Lasers can treat: Broken capillaries (blood vessels), hair removal permanently, remove tattoos, eliminate wrinkles, without causing damage to the surrounding tissue. Laser has been used in many surgical procedures. Lasers work by means of a medium (solid, liquid, gas, or semiconductor) that emits light when excited by a power source. The medium determines the wavelength of the laser and thus its use. Most lasers are classified as level 2 or above, which means that estheticians must be working under the supervision of a qualified physician to operate a laser. Led or Light Emitting Diode: Is used to reduce acne, increase skin circulation, and improve the collagen and elastin content in the skin. The led works by releasing light onto the skin to stimulate specific response at precise skin depth. Each color of light corresponds to a different depth (nanometer) in the skin. The led color of light is seeking color in the skin, known as “chromophore”. A chromophore is a color component within the skin such as blood or melanin. Led can be blue, red, yellow, or green. Blue light reduces acne Red light increases circulation and improves the collagen and elastin production in the skin. Yellow light reduces swelling and inflammation Green light reduces hyperpigmentation Contraindication of light therapy: Not to be performed on anyone who has: Light sensitivities (photosensitivity), Phototoxic reaction, is taking antibiotics, has cancer, epilepsy, pregnant, or under physician’s care. If you are not sure about performing a light therapy to a certain client, refer the client to his physician for clarification. Infrared light: Has the longest wavelength and can penetrate the deepest into the skin. Infrared light has been used in salons for heating hair conditioners and chemicals in hair treatments. Also used in spas for relaxation, for anti-aging treatments, such as reducing wrinkles, wound healing, and increasing circulation. Intense pulse light is a medical device that uses multiple colors and wavelengths of focused light to treat spider veins, Hyperpigmentation, rosacea/ redness, enlarged follicles, and excessive hair. Multiple treatments are required, and the treatment must be performed under a physician supervising.
5) BASIC OF NUTRITION Estheticians are not licensed dietitians; therefore, we are not allowed to recommend dietary changes to our clients. Even so, we need to understand what supports and builds our cells, tissues, and to understand the power of the correct nutrition on all our body and our skin. In this chapter, we will learn the basics of nutrition. The food is broken down into basic molecules that are then delivered to every cell in our body to provide the necessary ingredients needed for all our systems. In this chapter, Nutrition recommendation: Nutrition needs, depend on age, sex, weight, physical activity, and body type. The United States Department of agriculture (USDA) is the governmental agency that regulates nutrition related affairs. The USDA issues recommended dietary allowances (RDA) for certain nutrients, including vitamins and minerals. The USDA issued in 2011 a recommendation guideline called “MyPlate” for food groups that individual should consume daily based on the individual’s needs. At www.choosemyplate.gov. They recommend nutrition tips, receipts and more. The nutritional tool now emphasizes healthy food choices, using a visual representation of a plate setting that divides the food groups by recommended proportions. Grains, vegetables, dairy, fruits and protein. Those are the 5 basic food categories. The recommendation for people of all ages is to eat foods with more calcium, potassium, fiber, magnesium, and vitamin A, C, E, and to avoid oversized meal portions, reduce calories and trans fats, cholesterol, sugar, and salt. Nutrition for the skin: Maintaining healthy skin starts with diet and water intake. Proper dietary choices help regulate hydration, oil production and overall cell function, skin disorder, fatigue, stress, depression, and some diseases are often the results of a poorly balanced diet. Macronutrients: Are the basic building blocks that are necessary for all bodily functions. They include 3 basic food groups: Proteins, Carbohydrates, and Fats. The recommended intake according to the USDA’s DASH eating plan is: Protein 20% (105 grams), Carbohydrates 54% (281 grams), Fat 26% (60 grams). This is based on an intake of 2000 calories per day. Protein: Proteins are a chain of amino acid molecules. Proteins are used in the duplication of DNA. DNA is the blueprint material containing all the information that controls the function of every living cell. Proteins are needed to make muscle tissue, blood, enzymes, keratin, collagen and elastin, that are present in the skin, nails, hair. Proteins are also used by the immune system in making antibodies. Proteins contain essential amino acids. There are more than 100 naturally occurring amino acids, but the proteins of all plants and animals are made from just 20 “common amino acids”. 11 of them are called nonessential amino acids because they can be synthesized by the body, and they do not have to be in our diet. The remaining 9 are essential amino acids that must be in our daily diet because they cannot be synthesized by our body. Dietary sources of protein: Meat, fish, poultry, eggs and dairy foods are all complete proteins and rich with essential amino acids. But needs to be limited because they also may raise cholesterol. Many plant sources are low in fat and a good source of fiber, but they are not complete proteins because they all lack at least one of the essential amino acids. “Complementary” foods are a combination of two incomplete proteins that together provide all the essential amino acids and make a complete protein. For example, Peanut butter and bread, rice and beans, beans and corn. Protein deficiencies can cause anemia, low resistance to infection, and organ impairment. Vegetarian people who eat strictly plant products with no dairy products, must be careful to consume enough protein in their diets through nuts, grains, legumes, soy products because they are rich in protein, and vegetables. Carbohydrates: break down the basic chemical sugars that supply energy for the body. They are frequently called carbs. The most important carbohydrates are glucose because it provides most of the body’s energy. Glucose is stored in the muscles and liver as glycogen. When muscles are used, glycogen is broken down to provide energy needed for muscular work. Nutrients are broken down into “Adenosine triphosphate (ATP). It’s the substance that provides energy to cells, and converts oxygen to carbon dioxide, a waste product that we breathe out. Carbohydrates can combine with protein to provide many body chemicals, for example, mucopolysaccharides, that are carbohydrate lipid complexes and are good water binders. These are important to the skin and are present in the dermis as glycosaminoglycan also known as hyaluronic acid a water binding substance between the fibers of the dermis. There are 3 basic structural carbohydrate divisions: Monosaccharides, mono means one, saccharide means sugar. That’s the most basic unit of carbohydrates which is glucose. Glucose is the simplest of all carbohydrates. Disaccharides: Di means 2. These are made of two molecular sugar units. Lactose (milk sugar) and sucrose (sugar). Polysaccharides: (Poly means many). These are a complex compound consisting of a chain of sugar unit molecules. there are 2 groups: Digestive and not Digestive. Starch is a digestive polysaccharide, which can be broken down by the digestive system into smaller usable glucose molecules. Starch is the storage form of glucose for plants. Fiber is the polysaccharide that is not digestible. The 3 basic types of carbohydrates: Are simple sugars, starches, and fibers. Simple sugars, these are present in table sugar. Also known as, sucrose, fructose, (fruit sugar) and lactose (milk sugar). Starches: These are called complex carbohydrates and are present in many vegetables and grains. Starch is white, odorless and is an important food. In plants carbohydrates are stored as starch. Fiber, also known as “Roughage”. It’s divided into 2 categories, Soluble and Insoluble. They help with the digestive system and lack of fiber is associated with constipation, and in the long term, with colon cancer. Dietary sources of carbohydrates: Simple carbohydrates- sweets, syrups, honey, fruit and vegetables. Starches- Grain, cereals, breads, flour products, potatoes, rice, legumes (beans), and pasta. High fiber foods – Grain, bran or wheat bran, whole grain breads, beans, apples, vegetables. Some foods include more than one type of saccharide. For example, potatoes contain starch and fiber, fruit contain sugar and fiber. Glucose: Blood glucose or blood sugar can drop too low without enough carbohydrate, and this will result with hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). This can cause fatigue, anxiety, and food craving. Hypoglycemia can reduce the blood oxygenation level and cause bodily damage. The hormone Insulin produced in the pancreas, brings nutrition and glucose into cells and stores fat. Without insulin, the body cannot utilize glucose. This will cause high glucose level in the body and low level and low level of glucose absorption by the tissues. Diabetes results from this imbalance. Fats: also known as lipids. Are used as energy, but not as readily as carbohydrates. Fat is essential for our body. Fat retains heat, used to produce the materials in the sebaceous glands. Lipids are fats or fatlike substances used to make hormones, create cell membranes, and assist in the absorption of vitamin A, D, E, K. Fatty acids: Fats are organic compounds made of glycerol molecules and fatty acids. The chemical composition of the carbon and hydrogen molecules that combine with glycerol, determine the type of fatty acid. Fatty acids make up triglycerides. Triglycerides are fats and oils representing 95% of fat intake. Phospholipids (the main lipids in the cell membranes), and sterols are the 5%. The 3 types of fatty acids are: Saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated. Saturated fats: Include more rigid molecules that cause hardening of the arteries. Many processed foods are rich in saturated fats. Monounsaturated fats: Olive oil and canola oil are more fluid and are important for cell integrity and membrane phospholipids. Polyunsaturated fats: Are liquid at room temperature and are more easily oxidized. Polyunsaturated fats are found in fish, corn, safflower and nuts. Omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids: Are polyunsaturated fatty acids necessary for brain, metabolism, hair and skin, and body development. Linoleic acid: Is omega 6, makes important hormones and maintains the lipid barrier of the skin. It is found in oils made from safflower, sunflower, corn, soybean, borage, and flaxseeds. Alpha linoleic acid AKA, omega 3 fatty acids: Are types of polyunsaturated fat. It contributes to reducing cardiovascular disease by reducing clogging and hardening in the arteries. It is found in cold water fish, such as salmon, mackerel, tuna, herring, trout and cod. Also, fish oil, walnuts, flax, pumpkin seeds, and alga. Omega 3 fatty acids contribute to reducing skin inflammations and maintaining healthy skin. Trans fatty acids: Increase the bad type of cholesterol in the blood known as low density lipoprotein (LDL). High density lipoprotein is good lipoprotein with high protein content. Cholesterol is a waxy substance that is needed to produce hormones, vitamin D and Bile. It protects nerves, the structure of the cells, and is vitally important in the body. It’s important to limit cholesterol because too much can result in clogged blood vessels, slowing and blocking blood flow, can lead to high blood pressure, heart disease and stroke. High cholesterol is also genetically determined. Calories: 1 gram of fat has 9 calories 1 gram of carbohydrate has 4 calories 1 gram of protein has 4 calories. Enzymes: Are biological catalysts, made of protein and vitamins. Enzymes break down complex food molecules into smaller molecules to utilize the energy from the food. Carbon dioxide in the body is also reduced by enzymes. Vitamins also assist in breaking down molecules.
- MICRONUTRIENTS VITAMINES MINERALS Micronutrients are essential trace vitamins and minerals that we need for proper body functioning, and they must be part of the diet, because the body cannot synthesize all vitamins on its own. Vitamins and minerals are needed to produce many biochemical processes that are necessary for life. Such as, breaking down and reconstructing protein, and synthesizing amino acids. Vitamins also are helping in energy release from carbohydrates. Vitamins are important for the skin by adding healing, softening and fighting diseases, they protect the skin against oxidation such as, vitamin A, C, E. The skin care industry includes those vitamins in many of their skin care products. Vitamins are divided into 2 categories: Fat soluble – Vitamin A, D, E, K. Water soluble – Vitamin B, C. Fat soluble vitamins are present in fats within foods. The body stores them in the liver and in the adipose tissue (fat). Therefore, it is possible to get too much of them, especially, vitamin A and vitamin D. Too much, can cause negative reactions. Fat soluble vitamins protect the outside membrane of the cells. Vitamin “A” Also known as retinol. Is used in skin care products for aging skin. It benefits the skin by stimulating collagen production, skin elasticity, and thickness. It is also used to treat “acne”. A group of compounds of vitamin “A” are called; Retinoids, Retinol, Retinoic acid or Retin-A, Tretinoin or Renova, Retinyl palmitate, Polypeptide, and Beta carotene. Those are mainly used as antioxidants. Without vitamin “A”, a hard keratin protein forms in the body, impairing cellular function of epithelial tissues, replacing mucus, and sometimes, resulting in bacterial infection. Vitamin “D”: Also known as sunshine vitamin, because the skin synthesizes vitamin D from cholesterol when exposed to a minimal amount of sunshine. Vitamin D, enables the body to absorb and use calcium. Our body needs calcium for bone development and maintenance. Vitamin D promotes healthy rapid healing of the skin and helps to support bone structure. Dietary sources include fortified milk, fish oils, egg yolks, butter, and foods from plants. Skin care companies add vitamin “D” to their products for skin health improvements and as an antioxMicronutrients: Vitamin and Minerals idant. Deficiencies of vitamin D” may cause bone diseases and abnormality in bone development in children and adults. Deficiency in vitamin D, may contribute to developing “osteoporosis”. It’s a reduction in the quality of bones. It is an age-related disorder, affecting mostly women. Vitamin D Is a fat-soluble vitamin, stored in the body. Too much vitamin D in the body can cause toxicity. Vitamin “E” AKA Tocopherol is primarily an antioxidant. Oxidation is caused by free radicals (the wild molecules that steal electrons from other molecules). Oxidation can cause damage to the skin and overall, the body. Antioxidants are very important, because they protect the body against free radicals. Tocopherol helps to stop free radicals and helps heal damaged tissues, when used both internally and included in topical skin care ingredients. Skin care products sometimes include both vitamin A and vitamin E, to provide a better antioxidant result. Vitamin “K”: Is essential for the synthesis of proteins necessary for the blood coagulation. Coagulation is the clotting factor that allows bleeding to stop. Vitamin K in skin care products may help decrease rosacea or spider veins by strengthening capillary walls. Vitamin K is found in beans, dark leafy vegetables Such as spinach and broccoli, and egg yolks. Deficiencies in vitamin K, results in hard to control bleeding and certain disorders that prevent proper absorption of fats by the intestine. Water soluble vitamins: Water soluble vitamins are B and C. They benefit the inside of cells, and they don’t stay in the body for a long time. The body must have regular supplies of them, but most of those vitamins are easily obtained though many foods. Vitamin “B” There are 8 B vitamins. B complex (niacin), B1(Thiamine), B2(riboflavin), B6(pyridoxine), B7(biotin), B12(cobalamin), folic acid(folacin), and B15(pantothenic acid). These interact with water-soluble vitamins and act as coenzymes (catalysts) to facilitate enzymatic reactions. Niacin; Necessary for metabolic reaction and Important for the release of energy from carbohydrates. Manufacturing steroids and red blood cells. Source of niacin, Proteins, peanuts, beans, milk, eggs, and meats. Riboflavin, B2; Assist with the enzymes to produce energy in cells and used by cells to produce amino acids and fatty acids. Found in milk, meat, liver, dark green leafy vegetables, broccoli, eggs, salmon, tuna. Deficiencies result in retarted growth, nerve tissue damage, dryness of the skin, and cracks at the corner of the mouth. Thiamine B1: Removes carbon dioxide from cells and converts carbohydrates stored as fat. Is found in pork, beef, fortified cereals, whole wheat products, and nuts. Deficiency may cause beriberi disease that affects the nervous system, slow heart rate, and cause mental dysfunction. Deficiency can also be caused by alcohol abuse. Pyridoxine B6; Important for the metabolism of proteins, breaking down and reconstructive amino acid, and contributing to the production of histamine. Can improve premenstrual syndrome. Is found in meats, soybeans, fish, walnuts, bananas, avocado, potatoes, and prunes. Deficiency results in poor coordination, mental problems, and some other problems related to poor protein synthesized. Folacin, folic acid; Important in the processing of amino acids and transporting certain molecules that are essential for the cells that make chemicals conductive to mental health. Vitamin B12, and vitamin C, must be present for folacin to work properly. Folacin is found in dark green leafy vegetables, asparagus, cantaloupe, sweet potatoes, green peas. Deficiencies can cause mental problems such as, bad mood, hostility, loss of memory. There is a connection between low intake of folacin and birth defects, and colorectal cancer. Biotin B7; Contributes to the synthesizing of protein and fatty acids, and the energy formation by cells. It is produced in the intestinal tract by microbes and is found in milk, liver, and meat. Antibiotics can cause deficiency of biotin because antibiotics can kill the intestinal good bacteria. Cobalamin B12; Is important for the activation of folacin. Synthesizing fatty acid, and DNA synthesize in conjunction with proper red blood vessel formation by the bone marrow. Is found in, lever, salmon, clams, oyster, and egg yolks. Lack of vitamin B12, can cause pernicious anemia. Deficiency syndromes may occur in older persons. Pantothenic acid B15; Involved in synthesizing fatty acids, in metabolizing proteins and carbohydrates, synthesizing hormones, cholesterol, and phospholipids. This vitamin also assists in the functioning of the adrenal glands. Pantothenic acid is present in many foods, but not in fruits and deficiency is almost nonexistent. Vitamin “C” Ascorbic acid: Is a strong antioxidant that protects against free radicals that cause oxidation and can damage the DNA and even cause formation of cancerous cells. Vitamin C is an important anti-aging vitamin, needed for proper repair of the skin and tissues. It is required for collagen formation in the skin, cartilage, and spinal discs. Many skin care products include vitamin C because it has been found to increase collagen, lighten the skin, prevent damage to capillary walls, and can help prevent easy bruising, bleeding gums, and capillary distension. Vitamin C, maintain blood vessels walls. Prevent cardiovascular disease and the clogging in the blood vessels and supports the healing process of the body. Vitamin C is present in many fruits and vegetables, citrus fruits, dark green leafy vegetables, and tomatoes. Deficiency can cause easy bruising, bleeding gums, poor wound healing and anemia. Bioflavonoids - Vitamin P; Is antioxidant, and enhances the absorption of vitamin C. It relieves pain, and bruises, protects capillary blood vessels, promotes circulation, has antibacterial effects, and can reduce the symptoms of oral herpes. Is present in citrus peels, peppers, grapes, garlic, berries, and green tea.
6) PHYSIOLOGY AND HISTOLOGY OF THE SKIN: Skin histology is the study of the structure and composition of the skin tissue. Physiology is the study of the function of living organisms. These are the foundational science estheticians need to learn, before caring for the skin. Estheticians are also known as technicians, skin therapists or specialists. Estheticians focus on preserving, protecting, and nourishing the skin. Skin facts: The skin is the largest organ in the body and it’s the barrier that protects our body from the outside elements. The integumentary system is a system that is composed of skin layers (within the skin layers, are) nerves, cellular functions, hair follicles, and glands (oil and sweat). All work together to regulate and protect the body. Hormones, growth factors, and other biochemicals, control the skin’s functions. The basic material for our body tissues and the foundation of our cells are protein. Proteins are made of amino acids. A chain of amino acids makes a protein. Appendages of the skin: Includes hair, nails, sweat gland and oil. The skin is the thickest on the palms of the hand and the soles of the feet, and thinnest on the eyelids. The six primary functions of the skin are Protection, sensation, heat regulation, excretion, secretion, and absorption. Protection: The skin protects the body from outside elements, microorganisms, and against injury. It protects the body through many defense mechanisms. The skin develops a barrier on its surface called, “acid mantle”. This barrier is composed of sebum (oil), lipids, sweat and water. The acid mantle is a hydrolipidic film that protects the skin from drying and from exposure to external factors. It’s an acidic layer and its pH is 5.5. It is important to protect the pH balance of the acid mantle to avoid skin dryness due to (TEWL) trans epidermal water loss that will cause irritations and skin inflammations. The lipids are substances that contribute to the barrier function of the epidermis. Lipids are oils and are part of the intercellular matrix (fluid between epidermal cells). Damage to the barrier layer can cause many skin problems including, sensitivities, aging, and dehydration. The skin can repair itself when injured, through hyperproduction of cells and blood clotting. Hormones, such as (EGF) epidermal growth factor stimulate skin cells to reproduce and heal. Protein and peptide, trigger fibroblasts (cell stimulators) that trigger the production of collagen and elastin. Another form of protection in the skin is melanin. It is the pigment that protects us from the sun. The melanin is the pigment in the eyes, hair, and skin. It protects us against the UV rays. Sensation: Sensory nerve endings in the dermis, respond to touch, pain, cold, heat, and pressure. When the body senses touch, it affects our body’s functions. Massage and products applications produce physiological benefits to the body, such as increased circulation. The nerve-end sends messages to the brain as a protective defense mechanism, or as a nerves or muscles to react. Sensory nerves are most abundant in the fingertips. Heat regulation: Our body temperature is 98.6 Fahrenheit (37 Celsius). When the outside temperature changes, the skin automatically adjusts to warm or cool the body. The body maintains thermoregulation through, Evaporation, perspiration, radiation, and insulation. Millions of sweat glands release heat from the body through respiration. Blood flow and blood vessel dilation, assists in cooling the body. While protecting the body against cold, the blood vessels decrease the blood flow, and the body’s fat layer helps to insulate and warm the body. The hair on our skin also helps maintain the body temperature against cold. When we are cold, the small muscles that are attached to the hair follicles called, “arrector pili muscles”, contract and cause goose bumps. This reaction causes an air pocket under the hair that stands up when the muscle contracts. Execration: The sweat glands also known as, the “sudoriferous glands”, execrate perspiration, and detoxify the body by excreting excess water, salt, and unwanted chemicals, through the pores. Pores are the opening for sweat glands. The sweat and the sebum are a part of the acid mantle. Secretion: Sebum is an oily substance that protects the surface of the skin and lubricates the skin and the hair. The oil glands, also known as the “sebaceous gland”, secrets the sebum that coats the surface of the skin and protects the skin from evaporation of water. The trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). Emotional stress and hormone imbalances can stimulate oil glands to increase the flow of sebum which can lead to skin problems. Absorption: Absorption of ingredients, water, and oxygen is necessary for our skin’s health. Vitamin “D” is also synthesized and produced in the skin, upon exposure to the sun. The skin selectively, absorbs topical products, and creams through the cells, and the hair follicles. The topical absorption is selective and limited. Only small molecular size, and other characteristics of the product can penetrate the skin. Lipid-soluble products penetrate better. The routes of penetration into the skin are through the follicle walls, sebaceous glands, intercellular or transcellular. The skin care manufacturers are creating new products that are more readily absorbed by the skin thus, making the term more effective. Many chemicals and prescription creams can penetrate the skin. This effect can be harmful or beneficial, depending on the product. Layer of the skin: The skin is composed of 2 main layers. The epidermis and the dermis. The epidermis: is the outermost layer of the skin. This is the epithelial tissue that covers our body. The epidermis is composed of 5 layers called strata (singular is stratum). The uppermost layer is the stratum corneum The second layer is the stratum lucidum The third layer is the stratum granulosum The fourth layer is the stratum spinosum The fifth layer is the stratum germinativum (basal layer) Estheticians are licensed to work only on the epidermis. Working on the dermis must be done with a physician or another licensed medical practitioner. The epidermis is composed of keratin and lipides. 95% keratin and the lipids protect the cells from water loss and dehydration. Keratinocytes: Are produced in the basal layer and go through changes as they move up, through the layers to the top layer, the stratum corneum. They start as stem cells in the basal layer and divide from the mother cell (the stem cell) to 2 daughter cells. As they move up to the stratum corneum, they harden. Becomes flat and loses their nucleus. Other cells in the epidermis include keratinocytes, immune cells, and nerve receptors (Merkel cells). The stratum corneum: Also known as the horny layer. Is the outermost layer of the epidermis. The estheticians primarily concern this layer. The stratum corneum is thin and waterproof, regenerates itself, detoxifies the body and responds to stimuli. The keratinocytes herded and died. They dried and lost their nuclei and became “corneocytes”. They are waterproof, protective scale-like cells. Because of that, this layer is referred to as “horny layer”. Keratinocytes are continually shed from the skin, allowing new cells to replace them. The process is known as “cell turnover”. The shedding process is called “desquamation”, and the keratinocytes on the surface are also called “squamous cells”. The stratum lucidum: Also known as the clear layer because it is translucent, thin and the keratinocytes in this layer contain clear keratin. The cells in this layer release lipids forming bilayers of oil and water. The thicker skin is on the palms and soles and is composed of epidermal ridges that provide a better grip while walking and using our hands. This layer also forms the fingerprints, and footprints. The stratum granulosum: AKA granular layer because it is composed of cells that resemble granules and are filled with keratin. In this layer there is production of keratin, intercellular lipids and enzymes that dissolves the desmosomes. Desmosomes are the structures that hold or glue the cells together. These cells move to the surface, become keratinized, and replace the cells shed from stratum corneum. In this layer, natural moisturizing substances such as, triglycerides, ceramides, waxes, fatty acids, and other intercellular lipids are made here and are excreted from cells to form components of the skin’s waterproof barrier referred to as, natural moisturizing factors. The stratum spinosum: AKA spiny layer. Cells continue to divide and change shape. Enzymes are creating lipids and proteins. Cell appendages, which resemble prickly spines, become desmosomes. The intracellular structures that strengthen and hold the cells together. Desmosomes are keratin filaments which are the protein bonds that create the junctions between the cells. These strengthen the epidermis and assist in intercellular communication. In this layer are also the Langerhans immune cells. The immune cells help destroy foreign invaders. The spinosum is the largest layer in the epidermis. The stratum germinativum: AKA, basal layer. Is above the dermis, composed of a single layer of basal cells, laying on a “basement membrane”. In this layer, the stem cells divide into daughter cells. The division is called “mitosis”. Some stem cells and daughter cells, always remain undifferentiated and keep dividing for constant self-renewal over a lifetime. These either remain stem cells, or become something else, such as keratinocytes in the body that some become skin cells, and others become gland, follicles, tissues or organs. Daughter cells that are not able to divide anymore, are now a specific type of cell known as “terminal differentiation”. The cells in this layer that are also produced, are lipids to hold the cells together. Merkel cells are touch receptors, and melanocytes which are cells that produce pigment. The pigment carrying granules is called melanosomes. Then the melanocytes produce melanin which determines skin, eyes, and hair color. Melanin, melanocytes, and melanosomes: The melanin is the pigment that protects us from the sun. Damage to DNA triggers melanocyte stimulating hormones to produce melanin. Melanocyte cells make melanosomes. The melanosome is transferred to keratinocytes. Melanosomes carry the pigment granules that provide skin color. Melanin moves up to the skin’s surface through dendrite (tube like). Tyrosinase is the enzyme that stimulates melanocytes to produce melanin. Every person has approximately the same number of melanocytes. The differences in genetic skin color are due to the amount of melanin activated in the skin and the way it is distributed. The darker skin has more activity in their melanocytes. Both internal and external factors affect melanin activation and production. There are 2 types of melanin: Pheomelanin – is red to yellow in color Eumelanin – is brown to black. And people with genetic mix combination of pheomelanin and eumelanin. Products that suppress melanin production, the brightening agents, some are called tyrosinase inhibitors. Are designed to reduce hyperpigmentation. The dermis also known as: derma, corium, cutis, or true skin The dermis is the support layer of connecting tissues. Below the epidermis, the epidermal/dermal junction, connects the dermis to the epidermis. It is composed of collagen tissues with many small pockets and holes and serves as a connecting tissue. The collagen fibrous from the dermis provide strength and adhesion, and the keratin from the epidermis aid strength and adhesion to the junction. The dermis is 25 times thicker than the epidermis. It consists of 2 layers. Under the epidermis is the “papillary layer”, and under the papillary layer, is the “reticular layer”. The dermis is composed of connective tissues made of collagen protein, and elastin fibers. The dermis supplies the skin with oxygen and nutrients, because of the existence of blood vessels. Fibroblasts provide protein and aid in the production of collagen and elastin. Collagen makes up 70% of the dermis and elastin which is the fibrous protein that forms elastic tissues, is only about one-fifteenth compared to the amount of collagen. Elastin gives the skin elasticity. Blood and lymph vessels, capillaries, follicles, sebaceous and sweat glands, sensory nerves, additional receptors, and the arrector pili muscles, are all located in the dermis. In the dermis, they are also fibroblasts, those are cell stimulators. Lymphocytes, fight infections and remove waste products, bacteria and excess water. Langerhans cells are guard cells. Mast cells, Involved in allergic reactions. Leukocytes (white blood cells)fight infections. Collagen and extracellular matrix. Proteins give support and function to the skin. Hormone as epidermal growth factor (EGF) and fibroblasts growth factor (FGF), stimulate new cells. The extracellular matrix (ECM) is composed of collagen and other proteins. These are referred to as, “ground substance”. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), are large protein molecules, and water banding substances, composed of polysaccharides and protein. They provide hydration. Hyaluronic acid is a GAGs ingredient and is also found in the extracellular matrix and intercellular matrix. The dermal papillae: Are membranes of ridges and grooves that attach to the epidermis. Attached to the dermal papillae are capillaries that nourish the epidermis and nerve endings that are sensitive to touch, and pressure. AKA tactile corpuscles. Papillae in the hair follicle are called “hair papillae”. They are small cone-shaped structures at the bottom of the hair follicle. The blood supplies nourishment within the skin through capillaries. The papillary layer is 20% to 20% of the dermis. The reticular layer: Is the denser and deeper layer of the dermis. Composed mainly of collagen and elastin. Damage in this layer causes sagging, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and aging. Stretch marks are also caused by damaged elastin fibers. UV rays and other factors cause damage to collagen and elastin. Subcutaneous tissue: Below the reticular layer of the dermis, is the subcutaneous layer AKA, Hypodermis is composed of loose connective tissue, or subcutis, AKA adipose tissue. This layer is 80% fat, and it creates a protective cushion that gives contour and smoothness to the body. It is the fat storage, source of energy, and is influenced by hormones, and contains vessels, fibers, adipose cells, fibroblasts and other cells. With age, this layer decreases. Hair anatomy: Hair is an appendage of the skin. The heavier concentration of hair is on the head, under the arms, around the genitals, and on the arms and legs. Hair contains 90% hard keratin. Trichology is the scientific study of hair and diseases. Hair growth is affected by age, and hormones. There is no hair growing on the palms of the hand and the soles of the feet, lips, and eyelids. Hair formation starts before birth. The hair on a fetus is extremely soft and is called, “lanugo” this hair will fall and be replaced with “vellus” or “terminal” hair, which is stronger, pigmented hair. Vellus hair is very fine, soft, and short. It is found on our body, but it is not noticeable. Terminal hair is the longest hair and is pigmented. Hair components: The roots of the hair, anchors hair to the skin cells, and are in the papillary layer below the surface of the skin. The shaft of the hair is the part of the hair that is above the skin. The shaft starts forming about halfway up to the surface, near the sebaceous gland in the hair follicle. The cell divides within the hair matrix, continues and grows longer. This procedure is known as “keratinization” and is complete, by the time these cells approach the skin surface, and the hair shaft starts. Basal cells in the hair matrix divide and form 3 main layers. The cuticle, cortex, and medulla. The cuticle is the outermost layer. The cortex is the middle, and the medulla is the center, or innermost layer of the hair shaft. The two outer layers of the hair shaft are composed of hard keratin, and the inner layer is the soft keratin. The pilosebaceous unit: Contains the hair follicle and its appendages. It consists of the follicle, hair root, hair bulb, hair papilla, and the attached “arrector pili muscle”, and sebaceous glands. The follicle is lined with epidermal tissue. The epidermal cells produce the follicle and hair matrix. The matrix is where cell mitosis (division) happens. Hair growth cycle: Hair growth occurs in three stages. Anagen, catagen, and telogen. Anagen phase is the growing phase. New hair is produced in the hair follicle. The activity is greater in. the hair bulb, and new hair is forming in the root, pushing up the older hair. Anagen phase remains for years and determines the length of the hair. Catagen phase is the transition stage of hair growth. In this phase, the mitosis stops. The hair grows upward and detaches itself from the dermal papilla. The follicle degenerates and collapses. This is the shortest part of the hair cycle and can last for weeks. Telogen phase is the final, or resting stage of the hair growth. The hair is at its full size and is erect in the follicle. The hair bulb is not active and hair is attached only by epidermal cells and may fall out. Latent phase, the follicle is empty and dormant. The old hair sheds, and the cycle begins again. It takes 4 to 6 weeks for the hair to grow from the papilla to the surface of the skin. Hair growth is affected by many factors including age, genetics, hormones and the person's health. The hair grows about half an inch per month. Hair removal is recommended during the anagen phase. Nail anatomy: The nail is an appendage of the skin and is composed of hard keratin. “Onyx” is the technical term for the nail. The hard, or horny nail plate, contains no nerves or blood vessels. Nails grow approximately 1/10 of an inch (3.7 millimeters) per month. Glands: The skin contains 2 types of glands known as duct glands. The oil gland, also known as sebaceous gland, and the sweat gland, also known as sudoriferous gland. Sebaceous glands are connected to the hair follicles and produce sebum (oil) which lubricate and protect the skin and the hair. The glandular sacs open into the follicle, through ducts. If the ducts become clogged, comedones (blackheads) are formed. The sudoriferous glands. They have a coiled base and duct opening at the surface known as pores. Liquids and salts are eliminated through these pores. There are 2 kinds of sweat glands: Apocrine and Eccrine. The apocrine: Are coiled structures attached to the hair follicles, found under the arms and the genital area. Their secretions are released through the oil glands. They are more active due to emotional changes. Odors associated with these glands are due to the interaction of the secretions and bacteria on the skin. The eccrine glands: Are found all over the body, primarily on the forehead, palms and soles. They release their secretion through a duct and pore. These glands are not connected to the hair follicles. They are more active during physical activities and high temperatures. Eccrine sweat does not typically produce an offensive odor. Skin health and aging of the skin are influenced by heredity, sun exposure, the environment, health habits and general lifestyle. The skin and all our body are nourished by the blood and the lymph system. The Langerhans cells are the guard cells that recognize foreign invaders such as bacteria and then process these antigens for removal through the lymphatic system. The immune system produces T-cells which identify molecules that have foreign peptides and help regulate immune response. Leukocytes (the white blood) are also part of the immune system. Free radicals are unstable atoms or molecules with unpaired electrons. Those are reactive oxidants (derived from reactions with oxygen molecules). To get stabilization, free radicals take electrons from compounds in the body such as protein, lipids, or DNA. This process destabilizes and oxidizes the healthy molecules and creates more free radicals, starting a “chain reaction” of cellular destruction that can oxidize millions of other compounds and continue to expand. To stop this reaction, our body needs antioxidant compounds that fight and stop free radical chain reaction. Glycation reaction: Glycation is the binding reaction of a protein molecule to glucose molecule resulting in the formation of damaged cells. Nonfunctioning structures known as “advanced glycation end products” (AGE products). Glycation alerts protein structures and decreases biological activity. When blood sugar goes up rapidly and continually, the sugar can attach to the collagen in the skin, making it stiff and inflexible. When collagen is cross-linked by sugar, it leads to stiff, sagging, and aging skin. Many diseases are also related to glycation such as arterial stiffening, cataracts, and neurological impairment. When blood sugar is elevated, the body is in an inflammatory state. Aging skin and hormones: As we age, our skin changes because of intrinsic (internal) factors, and extrinsic (external) factors. Hormone imbalance is a significant intrinsic factor that causes aging skin. Hormones are the internal messengers for most of the body’s systems. Decrease in the level of estrogen hormone (present in both, men and women), will affect the skin tissue. Estrogen hormone is anti – inflammatory, antioxidant, and a key factor in tissue repair. This hormone is also responsible for maintaining health in several body functions, such as coordination, balance, skin moisture, vision, bones and nervous system. Decreases in the estrogen in women start in their forties, as women enter perimenopause, all tissues begin to thin and change. This affects the epithelial tissues, the barrier of the skin, the dermis, the vascular and capillary walls begin to weaken, lipids glands slow down, and the lymphatic system is less efficient. Therefore, hormone replacement therapy (HRT) is often suggested to balance estrogen for women experiencing menopause. These hormones may be derived from animal – source estrogens or from plant – source estrogens and phytoestrogens which are much weaker. About 200 – 400 times weaker than the animal estrogen. Microcirculation” Is the circulation of blood from the heart to arterioles (small arteries). Hormone changes may also cause microcirculation problems that are common in mature skin. “Telangiectasia” is the dilation of the capillary walls. And rosacea is a chronic vascular disorder characterized by “couperose” veins and congestion of the skin. Acne rosacea includes papules and pustules. Rosacea can be also caused by parasitic microorganisms (mites).
7) DISORDER AND DISEASES OF THE SKIN Understanding and recognizing skin disorders and diseases is very important to provide an effective and safe service to the clients. Many of the skin disorders, estheticians can treat safely. But never work on any condition that you don’t recognize, when in doubt, stop the service and let the client know if you do not recognize a condition or a lesion. Dermatology and esthetics: Dermatology is the branch of medical science that studies and treats the skin and its disorders and diseases. A dermatologist is a physician who treats these disorders and diseases. Estheticians may not perform services on clients who have contagious or infectious diseases. Any skin abnormality that you do not recognize, must be referred to a physician. Lesions of the skin: Lesions are structural changes in the tissues caused by damage or injury. Any mark, wound, or abnormality is described as a lesion. The 3 types of lesions are, primary, secondary, and tertiary. Some books refer to the third lesion as a vascular lesion. Vascular lesions involve the blood or circulatory system. Primary lesions are in the early stage of development or change. Primary lesions include the following. Bulla: A large blister containing watery fluid. It’s like a vesicle, but larger Cyst: A closed, abnormally developed sac, containing fluid, infection, or other matter above or below the skin. An acne cyst is one type of cyst Macule: A flat spot elevation on the skin that contains no fluid but may develop into a pustule. Papule is less than half an inch and may have a varied appearance in color and are either rounded, smooth, or rough Pustule: An inflamed papule with a white or yellow center containing pus. Pus is a fluid consisting of white blood cells, bacteria, and other debris. A small pus-containing blister that may or may not be caused by infection. Acne pustules in hair follicles are not infectious Tubercle: An abnormal rounded, solid lump which is larger than a papule Tumor: A large nodule. An abnormal cell mass resulting from excessive cell division varying in size, shape, and color Vesicle: A small blister of sac containing clear fluid (poison ivy and poison oak produce vesicle) Wheal: An itch, swollen lesion caused by a blow insect bite, skin allergy reaction, or stings hives and mosquito bite are wheals. Hives are also called urticaria can be caused by an allergic reaction Secondary lesions: Develops in the later stages of disease and change the structure of tissues and organs. Crust: dead cells formed over a wound or blemish while it is healing, resulting in accumulation of sebum and pus. Sometimes mixed with epidermal material such a scab on a sore Excoriation: A skin sore or abrasion caused by scratching or scraping Acne excoriee: A disorder where clients purposely scrape off acne lesions, causing scarring and discoloration Fissure: A crack in the skin may penetrate the dermis. Chapped lips or hands are fissure. Keloid: A thick scar resulting from excessive growth of fibrous tissue (collagen) may occur following an injury or surgery Scale: Excessive shedding of dead skin cells. A thin plate of epidermal flakes, dry or oily such as dandruff or psoriasis Scar: Discolored and slight raised mark on the skin, formed after the skin has healed from an injury, or lesion Ulcer: An open lesion on the skin or mucous membrane of the body with pus and loss of skin depth. A deep depression in the skin requires medical referral Disorder of the sebaceous glands: Acne: Is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder of the sebaceous glands caused by over secretion of sebum from the sebaceous glands and Propionibacterium acne bacteria (P. acne). It’s characterized by comedones and blemishes. There are some types of acne such as, acne simplex, or acne vulgaris. Asteatosis: Dry, scaly skin from sebum deficiency due to aging, cold exposure, or harsh soaps Comedo: In plural – comedones. Is a noninflamed build of cells, sebum, and the debris inside follicles. An open comedo is a blackhead opened to the air. Excess sebum fills the follicle and forms a blackhead. Oxygen from the air causes an oxidation reaction that forms a black color. Closed comedo forms when the opening of the follicles is blocked with debris and white cells. It is also referred to as “whitehead”. A more hardened type of papules called “milia” Furuncle: Also known as a “Boil”. Is a subcutaneous abscess filled with pus caused by bacteria in the hair follicle. Carbuncles: Group of boils Milia: A small epidermal cyst. Milia are firm, white, and pearl- like they consist of dead cells and sebum under the skin. Milia is more common in dry skin types, and after trauma, such as laser resurfacing, or exposure to UV radiation, or excess moisturizer. They are round and usually found around eyes, cheeks, and forehead. Milia must be opened by a lancet. Sebaceous hyperplasia: Benign lesions frequently seen in oilier areas of the face. It’s white, yellow, or flesh colored, and described as doughnut-shaped with an indentation in the center. These harmless lesions cannot be removed by extraction, only surgically. Seborrhea: Severe oiliness of the skin. An abnormal secretion of the sebum from the sebaceous glands. Seborrheic dermatitis: Characterized by dry or oily scaling or crusting and/or itchiness, red, and flaky skin. May appears in the eyebrows, in the scalp and hairline, middle of the forehead, and along the side of the nose. It is a common form of eczema and may be caused by an inflammation of the sebaceous glands. It needs to be treated by a physician. Steatoma: A sebaceous cyst or subcutaneous tumor filled with sebum. The size ranges from a pea to an orange. Usually appears on the scalp, neck, and back. Also called a “wen” Disorder of the sudoriferous glands: Anhidrosis: A deficiency in perspiration due to failure of the sweat glands. May result from a fever, or skin disease. Should be treated by a physician Bromhidrosis: Foul-smelling perspiration usually in the armpit, or on the feet. It is caused by bacteria and yeast that break down the sweat on the surface of the skin Hyperhidrosis: Also known as diaphoresis. Excessive perspiration caused by heat, genetics, medication, or medical condition Miliaria rubra: Also known as prickly heat. Is an acute inflammatory disorder of the sweat glands, results in the eruption of red vesicles and burning, itching skin from excessive heat exposure. Inflammation of the skin: Dermatitis: Is an inflammatory condition of the skin, such as eczema, vesicles, or papules. The 3 main categories are; Atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, and seborrheic dermatitis Atopic dermatitis: Is a chronic inflammation from allergies. Allergens trigger reactions that include dry, cracking, redness, and itching skin. Dehydration makes the condition worse. The skin needs to be well hydrated and topical corticosteroids can help Contact dermatitis: An inflammatory skin condition caused by contact with a substance that caused an allergic reaction or contact with an irritant. Make-up, skin care products, detergents, dyes, fabrics, plants, jewelry can all cause allergies. Irritants contact dermatitis is a localized inflammatory reaction caused by exposure to caustic irritants. It can become worse and lead to allergic contact dermatitis Perioral dermatitis: An acne like condition around the mouth consists of small clusters of papules. It’s not contagious and can be treated with antibiotic Eczema: An inflammatory, painful, itching disease of the skin, acute or chronic in nature with dry or moist lesions. Should be treated by a physician. Seborrheic dermatitis is a form of eczema Edema: Swelling from a fluid imbalance in the cells, or from a response to injury, infection, or medication Erythema: Redness caused by inflammation Folliculitis: A bacterial infection caused by ingrown hairs to the surface of the skin. It’s common in men, usually from shaving referred to as; Barbae folliculitis, folliculitis barbae, sycosis barbae, or barber’s itch. Folliculitis without the pus or infection, is called “razor bumps” Pruritus: Is persistent itching Psoriasis: An itchy skin disease, characterized by red patches covered with white silver scales caused by an over proliferation of the skin cells that replicate too fast. It’s not contiguous, but can be spread by irritating the affected area Urticaria: Also known as hives. Is an allergic reaction by the body’s histamine production. Vascular lesions: Rosacea: Is an inflammation of the skin causing redness because of the dilation of blood vessels. Some kind of rosacea includes papules and pustules. It is chronic congestion, primarily on the cheeks and the nose. The reason is not well known, but may be due to heredity, bacteria, mites, or fungus. Rosacea can aggravate because of spicy foods, alcohol, caffeine, temperature extremes, heat, sun and stress. Soothing and calming ingredients and cooling the skin, will help calm the skin and decrease inflammation. Telangiectasia is distended blood vessels caused by damages and weaken capillaries wall Varicose veins: Vascular lesions that can occur anywhere in the body, treated with sclerotherapy, a nonsurgical injection into the vein. In severe cases, surgery is a treatment option. Allergic contact dermatitis: Is caused by exposure and direct skin contact to an allergen. An allergic reaction occurs when our immune system mistakes a substance for a toxic one and initiates a major defense against it. Different people develop allergies to different allergens. But allergies may be inherited. Hypersensitivity, also known as an allergic reaction, that developed over repeated exposure to an allergen. It may even take months or years. Irritant contact dermatitis: It is an instant reaction that affects everyone who meets an irritant, but the degree of irritation will vary depending on the individual. In acute cases, symptoms are noticed immediately, or during a few hours. In Chronic cases, symptoms may be delayed and noticed after weeks, months, or years. The immune system reacts to the irritant substance by releasing histamines which enlarge the vessels around the lesions, allowing more blood flowing to the infected area. The entire area becomes red, and warm. The histamines cause itchy feelings accompanied with contact dermatitis. The immune system will also flood the tissues with water trying to dilute the irritant and cause the swelling effect. If you avoid repeated contact with the irritant, the skin will calm and usually will repair itself. However, continued, or repeated exposure may lead to permanent allergic reaction and skin damage. Pigmentation disorders: The genetic background of a person influences pigmentation disorders. Abnormal pigmentation referred to as “dyschromia”, can be caused by both; Internal or external factors. Sun exposure is the biggest external cause of pigmentation disorders. It can worsen existing pigmentation or cause pigmentation. Drugs may also cause pigmentation disorder. The 2 types of pigmentation disorder: Hyperpigmentation is over production of pigment Hypopigmentation is lack of pigment Hyperpigmentation: Excess melanin caused by hyperproduction, causes excess pigment; Sun exposure, acne, medications, and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation from skin damage can cause dark pigmentation. Can be treated by skin exfoliation treatment or referred to a dermatologist. Forms of hyperpigmentation: Chloasma: Also known as “liver spot” is an increased pigmentation from sun exposure, or other factors. Melasma: Is a type of chloasma, triggered by hormonal changes during pregnancy, or with the use of birth control. Also known as “pregnant mask”. Lentigo: Flat, small, yellow-brown spot. Like freckles. Lentigines are multiple freckles that result from sun exposure. Liver spots, called “actinic” or “solar lentigines”. Freckles, also known as “macules”, are small round or oval pigmented skin on areas exposed to the sun. Nevus: Also known as birthmark. Is a malformation of the skin from abnormal pigmentation or dilated capillaries. Stain: Abnormal brown or wine-colored skin discoloration with a circular or irregular shape. A port-wine stain; Is a birthmark which is a vascular type of nevus. Tan: Tanning caused by sun exposure. The UV radiation damages the skin and causes melanin production. Hypopigmentation: Albinism. Also known as congenital leukoderma, or congenital hypopigmentation. It is a genetic condition characterized by the lack of melanin pigment in the body, including skin, eyes, and hair. Lack of melanin can cause risk for skin cancer, sensitive to light, and early aging of the skin. Leukoderma: Loss of pigmentation resulting in light abnormal patches of depigmented skin, due to congenital, acquired because of immunological, and post-inflammatory causes. Vitiligo and albinism are “leukodermas”. Vitiligo: A pigmentation disease characterized by white irregular patches of the skin that are totally lacking pigment. This condition worsens with time and sunlight. And can occur at any age and. It is believed to be an autoimmune disorder causing an absence of melanocytes. Hypertrophies of the skin: Is an abnormal growth. May be benign, or harmless. But can also be premalignant or malignant. Hypertrophic is thickening of a tissue. Atrophy is wasting away or thinning of skin tissue. Keloids are an example of hypertrophies. Actinic keratosis: Is characterized by pink or flesh-colored, precancerous lesions that feel sharp or rough. They are resulting from sun damage and should be treated by a dermatologist. Hyperkeratosis: Thickening of the skin caused by a mass of keratinocytes. Keratoma: AKA “callus”. Caused by pressure or friction results in a thickened patch of the epidermis. If the thickening grows also inward, it becomes corn. Keratosis: An abnormal thick buildup of skin cells. Keratosis pilaris: Redness and bumpiness in the cheeks or upper arms, caused by blocked follicles. Exfoliators may help. Mole: A brownish spot ranging in color, from tan to bluish black. Some are flat and others are raised and darker. Most are benign, but changes require referring to a physician. Hair in moles are common and should not be removed unless by a physician. Skin tag: Smal; outgrowth or extensions of the skin that look like flaps. They are benign. Verruca: Also known as “wart”. A hypertrophy of the papillae and epidermis caused by virus. It is infectious and contagious and can spread. Contagious diseases, also known as infectious or communicable disease. Do not perform service on anyone with a contagious disease because it can infect you and the others. They should be referred to a physician. The following are contagious diseases: Conjunctivitis: Also known as “pinkeye” is an inflammation of the mucous membrane (conjunctiva) around the eye due to chemical, bacterial, or viral causes; It’s very contagious and treated with antibiotics. Herpes simplex virus 1: A contagious viral infection causes fever blisters, or cold sores. They are group of vesicles on red, swollen base usually appears on the lips or nostrils Herpes simplex virus 2: A contagious genital herpes Herpes zoster: Also known as a viral painful skin condition from the reactivation of the chickenpox virus, AKA “the varicella-zoster virus”. This virus will cause infection of the sensory nerves characterized by groups of red blisters that form a rash that occurs in a ring or line that is confined to one side of the body. Can cause nerve and organ damage and pain and can last for months or years. Treated with antiviral drugs. Impetigo: An extremely contagious bacterial infection of the skin often occurs in children. Characterized by clusters of small blisters or crusty lesions. Tinea: Fungal infections. Fungi feed on protein, carbohydrates, and lipids in the skin. Tinea pedis: Also known as “athletes’ foot” is a fungal infection of the skin on the feet. Tinea corporis: Also known as “ringworm” Is highly contagious and forms a ringed red pattern with elevated edges. Pediculus capitis: Is head lice parasite. Wart: Also known as “verruca” is a hypertrophy of the papillae and epidermis caused by a virus. It is very contagious and can spread. Tinea versicolor: Also known as “pityriasis versicolor”. It is a non contagious fungal infection that inhibits melanin production, caused by yeast. Characterized by white, brown, or salmon-colored flaky patches. This sun fungal can be treated with antifungal cream. It may fade during the cold winter season, but recurs during the warm humid summer. Skin cancer: Skin cancer is caused by damage to the DNA. Tumors form, when cells begin to divide rapidly and unevenly. Skin cancer increases with cumulative UV sun exposure and is found in 3 distinct forms that vary in severity. The success of the treatment depends on how early these abnormal growths are detected and treated. Esthetician should recognize suspicious lesions and refer the client quickly and tactfully to a physician. Basal cell carcinoma: Is the most common and the least severe type of carcinoma. Characterized by open sores, red patches, or a smooth growth with an elevated border. It often appears as shiny bumps resembling a pearly nodule. Basal cell is caused by overexposure to UV radiation. They can be removed by surgery and may not spread easily such as “squamous or melanoma cells. Squamous cell carcinoma: Is more serious than basal cell carcinoma. It’s characterized by red or pink scaly papules or nodules, sometimes with open or crusty areas that do not heal and may bleed easily. Squamous cell carcinoma can grow and spread to other areas of the body. Malignant melanoma: Is the most serious form of skin cancer, characterized by black or dark patches on the skin that usually are uneven in texture, jagged, or raised. It can be tan and even white color. May have a crusting or bleeding surface. Many appear in pre-existing moles. It is not always found in areas exposed to sunlight and is often found on feet, toes, back, and legs. Malignant melanoma is more deadly because it can spread (metastasize) through the body and to internal organs via the lymphatic and the blood circulation. Infrequent, intense exposure to UV radiation may cause higher risk for melanoma, than chronic continuous exposure does. Caucasians people who have a tendency to burn are more susceptible to skin cancer. Early detection of melanoma and starting an early effective treatment is very important and can save life. Melanoma detection: The American cancer society recommends using the “ABCDE” checklist to help recognize potential skin cancer. When checking existing moles, look for changes of the following. A – Asymmetry; The 2 sides of the lesion are not identical. B – Border; The border is irregular on these lesions. C – Color; Melanomas are usually dark and have more than one color. D – Diameter; The lesion in a melanoma is usually at least the size of a pencil eraser. E – Evolving; Melanoma as a lesion often changes appearance. Causes of acne: Causes of acne include the following. Genetic/ heredity Clogged follicles Bacteria Triggers include hormones, stress, cosmetics, skin care products, and foods Genetics and clogged follicles: Excess of sebum (skin oil), retention hyperkeratosis, and sebaceous filament can cause clogged follicles Retention hyperkeratosis: Is a hereditary factor, characterized by a buildup of dead skin cells that do not shed from the follicles as they do on normal skin. Additionally, excessive sebum that mix with the dead cells become a comedone and plugs in the follicle. Open and closed comedones are formed and cause the beginning of acne. Another reason follicles get clogged and form comedones, is because the opening of the follicles is too small. the opening of the follicle also known as “ostium”. Sebaceous filament: Is an impaction of sebum without the cell matter that will block the follicle and may cause an acne breakout. They are like open comedones. Are mainly small and often found on the nose. Bacteria: Bacteria in the follicles are anaerobic. This means that the bacteria cannot live in the presence of oxygen. When the follicles are blocked with sebum and dead skin buildup, oxygen cannot reach the bottom of the follicle. This results in excessive P. Bacteria (Propionibacterium) proliferation. Excess sebum in the follicle causes inflammation. As bacteria and inflammation grows and cause pressure on the follicle walls that rupture the follicle walls and spread the debris into the dermis. The immune system will detect the foreign objects and white blood cells move in, to fight the infection. This will cause inflamed lesions. The pus that fills the pustules also dead white blood cells. Cyst are nodules made up of deep pockets of infection. Skin forms hardened tissue around the infection to stop the spread of the bacteria. Which can lead to both, depressed and raised scars from damage to the dermal tissue. This is called cystic acne and should be treated by a physician. Acne triggers: Hormonal changes, stress, products, and certain foods may aggravate acne. Climate, sun, friction, and medication also trigger skin flare – ups. Hormones: Male hormones known as “androgen” stimulate the sebaceous glands. High levels of the male hormone “testosterone”, cause an increase in oil production which leads to oily skin and possible acne. These hormones increase their activity during puberty and cause teen acne in females and males. Adult acne is also influenced by hormonal changes such as extra hormone production of the adrenal gland due to stress. Hormonal fluctuation from birth control pills, or pregnancy, premenstrual changes, and menopause. Those changes can cause acne inflammation in women. Hormonal acne is often seen on the chin. Hormones during premenstrual cycles cause water retention. This will cause swelling in the epidermis and block the pilosebaceous ducts. During pregnancy, progesterone hormone will convert to testosterone and may cause acne breakouts. Especially during the first 3 months. Stress triggers the secretion of the adrenalin hormone from the adrenal gland. This will support the body during stress events. The adrenal gland also produces male hormones in males and females, that will increase the sebum production Cosmetic and products: Certain ingredients in products can aggravate acne. Those are products that clog or irritate the follicles such as waxes and some oils. These products are “comedogenic”, ingredients that can block the follicles. Blocking the follicles will lead to comedones. Acnegenic products also cause acne inflammation. Products rich in emollients and occlusive products., are too heavy for oily congested skin. Moisturizers and sunscreens should be lighter formulas such as oil in water (O/W) emulsion. Those emulsions contain more water than oil. Ingredients of water and oil (W/O) are much more thick, heavy, and rich with oil and contain less water. Some kinds of foundations and powders that are made with solid and fatty ingredients are comedogenic. Foods: Excessive (MSG) monosodium glutamic, salt, kelp, cheese, processed and packed foods, such as fast food can all irritate acne. Fresh vegetables and fruits, water intake will help and may calm acne breakout. Too much touching, rubbing, or scratching will irritate the skin and aggravate the acne. Keeping hands and items that touch the face clean, such as makeup brushes, or pillows can help reduce breakouts. Grads of acne: They are 4 grads of acne. The number of lesions, comedones, papules, pustules, or cyst determines the severity of the acne. Grade 1: Minor breakouts, mostly open comedones, some closed comedones, and a few papules. Grade 2: Many closed comedones, more open comedones, papules, and pustules. Grade 3: Red and inflamed, many comedones, papules and pustules. Grade 4: Cystic acne, cysts with comedones, papules, pustules, and inflammation. Scare formation from tissue damage is also common.
8) SKIN ANALYSIS: Before performing services or selecting products, the client’s skin and condition must be analyzed correctly. Every person is unique, and everyone has a unique skin condition. Before treating the client, the esthetician should perform a consultation and skin analysis to determine which products to use and recommend. It is also a guide to determine the type of service to perform. A client chart is used to record the analysis and consultation notes. The health consultation will also clarify which product or service is contraindicated (prohibited) for the client. Contraindications are factors that prohibit a treatment due to a condition. Certain treatments could cause harmful or negative side effects to certain people for example: Providing light therapy to people suffering from epilepsy, or harsh peeling treatments for clients with sensitive skin. Skin condition may be caused by both internal and external factors. Ethnic skin also has unique conditions and challenges, products are formulated for different skin types and challenges. The clients rely on estheticians for information about their skin condition and how to improve their skin appearance. Skin types are genetically determined: People are born with their skin type which is determined by their genetics and ethnicity. Skin type is based on the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands and the amount of lipids found between the cells. Our cellular metabolism and lipid production slow down as we age. Skin type: The size of the follicles on the forehead, the nose, and the chin known as the t – zone, can help determine the skin type. Skin type includes, Dry, normal, combination, and oily. Sensitive skin is sometimes described as skin type but it’s a skin condition. Treatment should be adjusted according to the skin type and condition, but all skin types need proper cleansing, exfoliating, and hydrating. Dry skin: Does not produce enough oil. The follicles are usually small, and the sebum is minimal. Dry skin is more sensitive because there are not enough lipids to provide a healthy skin barrier. The acid mantle is not healthy and needs occlusive products. The occlusive products are thick and contain high levels of oils and waxes, those products lay on the top of the skin to reduce the (TEWL) trans epidermal water loss and serve as a barrier of the skin. Dry versus dehydrated skin: The difference between dry and dehydrated skin is that dry skin lacks oil, dehydrated skin is a condition characterized by lack of water. Dehydrated skin can be seen in all skin types. The skin looks thin and flaky and can feel tight and dry. Sometimes described as crepe paper. Dehydration can be caused by internal and external factors such as medications, coffee, alcohol, sun, over exfoliation, and harsh products. Drinking a lot of water and hydrating the skin with moisturizers and humectants can help. Normal skin: has a good oil – water balance. It can fluctuate and sometimes will be a little drier or oilier, the follicles are a normal size, and no redness is seen. Recommendation treatment is maintenance and prevention of the skin. Combination skin: The skin combination can be a combination of oily and dry or oily and normal. The T-zone through the middle of the face has more sebaceous glands, more sebum secretion, and larger follicles. The outer areas of the face can be either normal or dry and can appear flaky from dehydration or build up dead skin cells. The recommended treatment is to achieve oil – water balance by proper cleansing and exfoliating. Using water-based products such as gel hydrators may balance the skin. Avoid over exfoliation and harsh cleansing. Oily skin: Also known as lipidic skin is more prone to acne and is characterized by excess of sebum production, large and oily follicles appear over most of the face. Oily skin needs more cleansing and exfoliating than other skin types. The follicles are clogged with oil, and a buildup of dead skin cells. The skin appears thicker, sallow, with comedones, and blemishes. Oily skin needs to be balanced and requires more cleansing and exfoliating, but over exfoliation, rubbing, and using harsh products can make the matters worse by stripping the acid mantle and causing skin irritation. In this case, the skin may produce more sebum trying to compensate for the dryness on the surface. Using proper deep cleansing, exfoliating and hydrating with a water base hydrator will keep the skin balanced. Sensitive skin: Is a condition, but also genetic. Is characterized by fragile, thin skin, and redness. The skin is easily irritated by products and by exposure to heat or sun. Rosacea, telangiectasia, or couperose conditions are more common on sensitive skin. Northern European descendants tend to have fair, light – colored skin that is thinner and more sensitive. Fragile or thin skin can also be a result of age or medication or exposure to chemicals, harsh products, treatments, and cold or hot weather. Recommended treatment: Detect if the cause of the sensitivity is genetic or something that irritated the skin. Sensitive skin has no tolerance to products and stimulation. Avoid irritating products and procedures such as excessive rubbing, heating, exfoliators, or extractions. Treat the skin very gently with calming and soothing products that are especially designed for sensitive skin. Fitzpatrick scale: The tolerance level for peeling treatments is different and varies between people. To determine treatments and products for the clients, Dr. Thomas Fitzpatrick developed a guideline scale. This scale is used to measure the skin type’s ability to tolerate sun exposure. Lighter skin type is generally more sensitive and reactive. Individuals with darker skin have more melanin which give them more protection from the sun, but they have other sensitivities and concerns. There is more than one phototype classification due to mixed genetic characteristics. Other skin classification systems. Glogau scale: The glogau scale evaluates photodamage (sun damage) based on wrinkling categorized by age. Type 1. Is minimal to no wrinkles; age 20 to 30 or younger. Type 2. Shows wrinkles only visible while in motion making facial expressions. Early to moderate photoaging, and light keratosis; age 30 to 40s. Type 3. Shows wrinkles at rest, advanced photoaging, hyperpigmentation, telangiectasia, keratosis; age 30 to 50s Type 4. Shows predominate wrinkles, severe photoaging, sever scarring may be noticeable. Age is not specified. Rubin’s classifications: Rubin’s classifications of photodamage uses level to classify photodamage by the depth of skin changes or damage. Level 1. Includes superficial pigment and changes in the epidermis. Superficial chemical exfoliation and antioxidants will be beneficial at this level. Level 2. Includes changes in the epidermis and papillary dermis. Actinic keratosis, pigmentation, and increased wrinkles are seen. Recommended treatments include Medium – depth peels and retinoids. Level 3. Deeper changes are shown down to the reticular dermis. Skin looks leathery and shows severe sun damage. Recommended treatment includes, laser resurfacing and other cosmetic products are suggested for this level of damage. Diverse skin pigmentation: Darker skin types contain more melanin than lighter skin type. Many of us have different heritages with a combination of ethnic backgrounds. Therefore, categories are only general guidelines. Melanosomes are pigment granules from the melanocyte cells that produce melanin in the basal layer. The number of the melanocytes is the same, but the melanin transferred to the keratinocytes by the melanosome is greater in dark skin. Darker skin types are considered oilier and thicker, they still can be fragile, but the reactions are not as visible as on lighter color skin. Darker skin types do not age quickly because the skin is thicker and has more melanin for additional sun protection. Hyperpigmentation is a greater problem for darker skin types, and hypopigmentation such as vitiligo. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can result from hormones, trauma, extractions, sun damage, or exfoliation. Hyperpigmentation can also be caused by peels, lightening agents, and laser treatments. Black skin is prone to hyperkeratosis. In this case, exfoliation and deep cleansing is needed. Hypertrophic scarring (keloids) is also more common. Asian skin is the most sensitive skin type. It has greater elasticity and firmness and does not show aging signs as quickly as Caucasian does. But Asian skin can develop hyperpigmentation from exfoliating agents such as alpha hydroxy acid. For this skin type, it is better to exfoliate the skin with enzymes, and it’s necessary to protect the skin with SPF. It is critical to use sun protection and to avoid sun exposure while using brightening treatments and after exfoliation. Using daily sun protection and minimizing sun exposure is always recommended. Native American, Hispanic, and Indians typically have thicker and oily skin.They need more deeper cleansing and exfoliating. The most common skin conditions include dehydrations, pigmentation disorder, and rosacea. Other skin conditions include comedones, hyperkeratinization, redness, sensitivities, and aging. The esthetician can improve some of these conditions by offering a professional treatment and using specialized products. Many of the disorders are listed in the chapter of the disorder and the diseases of the skin. Factors that affect the skin: The skin is affected by internal and external factors. Internal factors: Our body’s intrinsic factors affect how we feel as well as how our body and skin look. Stress, lifestyle, and or attitude affects our health. Dehydration and improper nutrition, alcohol, caffein, vitamin deficiency, hormonal imbalances and changes such as during the menopause can lead to sensitivity, dehydration, hyperpigmentation and affect the capillaries, lack of exercise and lack of sleep, smoking, medications and drugs are the intrinsic factors that affect our body and our skin. External factors: Sun damage is the main extrinsic cause of aging. Environmental exposure, pollutants, air quality and humidity. Also, poor maintenance and home care, missus of skin products, or poor facial treatments all those factors affect our body and our skin. During the client consultation the esthetician can guide the client and provide suitable treatment and recommendation. Sunlight and interaction with the skin: UV radiation, Both UVA and UVB wavelengths are absorbed, scattered, and reflected by the skin. UVC Wavelengths are the shortest and the most dangerous, but they are mainly absorbed by the ozone layer. UV radiation is a proven carcinogen, suppressing the immune system, and causing eye damage. “Minimal erythemal dose” (MED) is the term used to describe how long it takes to become red (erythema) from sun exposure. The dosage is the intensity of the sun multiplied by the time exposed. Dosage = Intensity X Time. Erythema is redness and the result of cell damage and blood vessel dilation in the dermis. It can appear hours after exposure and last several days. Avoiding sun damage by wearing protective clothing, hats, sunglasses, using SPF, proper home care treatments and ingredients, and maintaining a healthy diet, vitamin, and water intake, exercising, and positive thinking will all benefit our body and contribute to a healthy-looking skin. Contraindications: Contagious diseases, skin disorders, medical conditions, medications, and skin irritation can all contraindicate a service. Legally, you may not ask the clients about contagious diseases, but they may list them on the client questionnaire. Recognizing diseases is very important to avoid causing harm to clients or to yourself. Also, medications or topical peeling agents can make the skin too sensitive for facial or waxing. Allergies and sensitivities to products and ingredients are also common. Contraindications for skin treatments. Certain skin disease, disorders, or irritations Use of Accutane or any skin-thinning or exfoliating drug, including Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, Differin, and so on. Avoid waxing, exfoliation, peeling treatments or stimulating treatments if a client uses these. Pregnancy – The client should not have any electrical treatments, or any questionable treatment, without her physician’s written permission. Some pregnant women also experience sensitivities from waxing. Metal bone, pins, or plates in the body – Avoid all electrical treatments. Pacemakers or heat irregularities – Avoid all electrical treatment Allergies – Any allergic substances listed should be strictly avoided. Clients with multiple allergies use fragrances-free products designed for sensitive skin. Seizures or epilepsy – Avoid all electrical and light treatments. Use of oral steroids (cortisone ) like prednisone – Avoid any stimulating, exfoliating treatments or waxing as skin may be more fragile and bruise easier. Autoimmune diseases such as lupus – Avoid any harsh or stimulating treatments. Diabetes – Be aware that due to their poor blood circulation, people with diabetes heals very slowly and may not readily feel pain. Especially in the feet. If you are in doubt, get approval from the client’s physician before treatment. Blood thinners – No extraction or waxing. Client consultation: A thorough client consultation is important for many reasons. The most important, is to find out any contraindications that the client may have. A consultation will help determine the reason for the client's skin problems. The more you know about your clients intrinsic and extrinsic factors, the more you discover what they need for their skin. Ask questions relating to skin conditions and client’s personal health. You may have 3 forms. A questionnaire A release form And a client chart that includes their skin analysis. The client should fill a confidential “Questionnaire”, a “client release form” is also highly recommended. It’s a document that the client reads and signs, releasing you from liability before you perform services. A “client chart” is a record of all your notes from the skin analysis. It includes what you used in treatments and your home-care recommendations. Performing a skin analysis: Knowing how to analyze the skin is the first step in providing skin care. A skin analysis checklist. Skin type; check the pore sizes and oil distribution Condition present; Note the comedones, capillaries, pigmentation, sun damage, and other conditions. Appearance: Is the skin dry, clear, oily, red, irritated? What else do you notice? Texture: Is the texture rough, smooth, dehydrated, firm? Record your observations on the client’s chart. Knowing how to analyze the skin is the first step in providing skin care. There are few tools for analyzing the skin. Magnifying lamp, wood lamp – can help to see deeper skin’s level of pigmentations and disorders, and other devices that magnify up to 200 times via a computer screen. The esthetician should identify the conditions and the contraindications, listen to the client's concerns and educate the client on healthy habits and the cause of their skin conditions. Also explain the needed treatment and the realistic results that we can expect. After cleansing, observe the skin type and the conditions present. Touch the skin and feel the texture. Try to determine the factors that may contribute to the client’s skin conditions. As an interesting point. The Chinese method of skin analysis is: Look, listen, ask, and touch The four examinations are used to determine the high and low energy of the whole person, and to diagnose the disharmony and the imbalance in the whole body.
9) SKIN CARE PRODUCTS CHEMISTRY INGREDIENTS AND SELELECTION: Chemistry ingredients, and selection This chapter covers the chemistry, the ingredients, and the product selection of the skin care products. The cosmetics industry is continually developing new products to improve the appearance of the skin. The effectiveness of skin care formulations has increased as our knowledge of skin biology expands. As an esthetician, you will need to know what a wide spectrum of skin care products does, how they work, and how they are used. Cosmetic ingredients are derived from many sources including herbs, essential oils, plants, and synthetic ingredients. Cosmetic chemistry: The FDA views cosmetics according to the cosmetic act of 1938, which distinguishes between drugs and cosmetics. Cosmetics are defined by the FDA as products that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or for cleaning, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. According to these definitions the cosmetics product cannot affect the structure or function of the skin. Therefore, the estheticians focus on improving the skin’s cosmetic appearance. The cosmetic ingredients are divided into 2 basic types: “Functional” ingredients, and “performance” ingredients. Functional ingredients: Make most of the product and are necessary for the formulation of the product. They allow the product to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as lotion, cream, or gel. They do not affect the appearance of the skin. One example is a preservative which is an inactive functional ingredient. Performance ingredients: Cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin. They are referred as “active-agents, or “active ingredients, which is an official term for use in drug industry to indicate ingredients that chemically cause physiological changes such as AHAs which exfoliate the skin, or lipids which strengthen the barrier of the skin, or glycerin, which hydrates the skin. Some ingredients are both functional and performance. A third category, “cosmeceuticals”: Those are products that are intended to improve skin health and appearance. Cosmeceuticals are stronger performance ingredients that may cause biochemical reactions and physiological effects to the skin. Product component: Ingredients can be derived from plants, vitamins, or animals. They are also synthesized from chemicals in a lab. The FDA regulates USA food labels and certification, but the FDA did not regulate the definition of the terms, natural, and organic skin care products. “Hypoallergenic” describes ingredients that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions. “Noncomedogenic” describes ingredients that will not clog pores or cause comedones. Water: Makes up a large part of the skin and is the most frequently used as a cosmetic ingredient. Many of the skin care products are a mixture of oil and water emulsions. It is both, vehicle and a performance ingredient. As a vehicle, it helps keep other ingredients in solution and helps spread products across the skin. As a performance ingredient, water replenishes moisture in the surface of the skin. Products that do not contain water are called “anhydrous” . These include oil – based serums, petroleum – based products such as lip balm and silicone serums. Anhydrous products are designed for dry skin. Emollients: Are “fatty” materials (derived from oils or fats) used to lubricate and moisturize the skin. They can act as a performance and as a vehicle ingredient. As a vehicle, the emollients help place, spread, and keep other substances on the skin. As a performance, the emollients lubricate the skin surface and guard barrier function. The emollients lie on top of the skin and prevent (TEWL) trans epidermal water loss). This moisturizing technique is called “occlusion”. Silicon and oils are both emollients. Oils: Oils come from many sources. They vary in density, fat content, and heaviness. They can cause comedones in oily and acne-prone skin. Different oils are appropriate for different degrees or dryness in the skin. Oils from the earth: Mineral oil and petrolatum come from the earth, specifically from petroleum sources and are excellent emollients that protect against dehydration and help prevent skin irritation. They are non-reactive and biologically inert. Inert means that they do not react with other chemicals involved in skin’s function. They can be combined with water and blended with an emulsifier into a cream, lotion, or fluid to make them less oily. Classic cold cream is one of the first moisturizers made and is blended with mineral oil. Mineral oil and petroleum can be used with no added preservatives because they are inert. Mineral oil is also a lubricant. Lubricant ingredients coat the skin and reduce friction. Oils from plants: A big variety of plants are used in skin care. Most plant oils are used for their emollient properties, but some, such as aromatic essential oils are used for their fragrances. Plant oils contain fatty acids which are beneficial for dry skin. Plant oils vary in fatty acid content and heaviness. Coconut oil and palm oil are two of the fattest and heaviest oils. Some lighter and less comedogenic natural oils are safflower, sunflower, canola, and jojoba. Other emollients: Hundreds of emollients exist. Some emollients come from natural sources and others are synthesized in a laboratory or derived from other oils or fatty material. Fatty acids: Are lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats. Fatty acids are more oils. Examples of fatty acids; Oleic acid, stearic acid, caprylic acid. Fatty alcohol: Are fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen. They have a waxy-like consistency and are used as emollients or spreading agents. Examples of fatty alcohols; Lauryl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol. Fatty esters: Are a combination of fatty acids, and fatty alcohol. Fatty esters lubricate more evenly and less irritating than natural oils. It is easy to recognize on the label, because they almost always end in ‘ate’ such as octyl palmitate, isopropyl mistrate, isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate. Silicone: Are a group of oils that are chemically combined with silicon and oxygen. They leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin, protecting The skin against (TEWL) without clogging the follicles. They act as a vehicle in some products such as makeup foundations. Examples of silicones are Dimethicone, cyclomethicone, and phenyl trimethicone. Those ingredients are frequently used in sunscreens, foundations, and moisturizers. Emollients and comedogenicity: Comedogenicity is the tendency of any topical substance to cause or worsen a buildup of dead cells in the follicle, leading to the development of comedones. Those products should not be used on oily skin or acne-prone skin. Many emollient ingredients such as oils and fatty acids can be comedogenic. Surfactants: Are functional ingredients. They reduce the surface tension between the skin and the product and increase the spread ability of cosmetic products. The detergents are surfactants, they are used in cosmetic products to combine water and oil. The main types of surfactants used in skin – cleansing, are detergent. Cleansers are: Soaps and, or detergents that clean the skin. Emulsifiers: Are another category of surfactants, and some detergents are also emulsifiers. Emulsifiers are surfactants that cause oil and water to mix to form an emulsion. Emulsifiers surround oil particles, allowing them to remain evenly distributed through the water. When skin care products are mixed, materials that are compatible with oil are mixed in with oil. These are called “oil soluble” and they are mixed into the oil phase of the product during manufacturing. Substances that are mixed with water are “water soluble” and they are mixed in the water phase. Emulsifiers examples are, Polysorbate, and potassium cetyl sulfate. Gellants and thickeners: Are agents that are added to thicken the products or to help suspend ingredients that are hard to mix into a product. An example is “carbomers” which are used to thicken creams and are frequently used in gel products. Fragrances: Are perfumes that give the products the scents. Fragrances can come from plants, animals, or synthetic sources. The plant oils are very popular because of the plant aromas. Aromatherapy: is the therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes. Essential oils: Are concentrated plant oils with therapeutic and relaxation effects. Aromatherapy has been used medically for thousands of years, and is still used today to heal, relax, stimulate, and balance the psyche. Preservatives: The preservatives prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from living in the product. Without preservatives, products could be contaminated with bacteria, fungi, molds, or other microorganisms. Example of preservatives used in skin care products, chelating agents. Chelating agents: Break down the cell walls of bacteria and other microorganisms and protect against oxidation. Common chelating ingredients are, disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, and tetrasodium EDTA. They are used in small quantities and appear on the bottom of the ingredient list. Some preservatives can cause irritation. Examples of preservatives are, parabens, quaternium 15, urea. Antioxidants are substances that inhibit oxidation reactions. They are used in products to stop the oxidation that causes products to turn rancid and spoil. Antioxidants also benefit the skin by protecting against free radicals and stop the oxidation reaction. Common antioxidants are, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), BHA, BHT, and tocopherol (vitamin E). Color agents: Are responsible for most of the product’s cosmetic effects. Colorants: are vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give product color. There are 2 types of color ingredients, Certified colors and non certified colors Certified colors: Are synthetic, inorganic, and are known as metal salts. Those colorants are certified and approved by the FDA. Non Certified colors: Are organic compounds from animal or plant extracts. They can also be natural mineral pigments. They are less irritating than the certified colors, making them more useful for cosmetics applied to the eye area. Those are listed on ingredient labels, as D&C which stands for “drug and cosmetic” or FD&C (food drug and cosmetic). Lakes: Are insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material and are commonly used in colorful cosmetics. Can be blended to provide many different colors for skin care products and makeup. Exempt colors: Those do not require certification. They include zinc oxide, iron oxide, carmine, mica, and ultramarine colors. They are less intense in color than certified colors. Zinc oxide and iron oxide, help with opacity it means that they provide a solid color not a transparent color. They are used extensively in makeup foundations. Other product components: pH Adjusters are functional ingredients. They are acids or alkalis(bases). They are used to adjust the pH of the products. Buffering ingredients stabilize products and prevent changes in pH sodium hydroxide and citric acid are often used as pH adjusters. Solvents: These are functional ingredients such as water or alcohol, that dissolve other ingredients. Botanicals: Performance ingredients and are used for their healing effects such as chamomile, licorice, and azulene. Hydrators, humectants and hydrophilic agents: Are ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface to reduce dehydration such as sodium PCA, sorbitol, seaweed extracts, algae extract, hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol. There are many combinations of moisturizers that determine the differences between creams, lotions, and fluids. Lipids: Are used to improve hydration, plumpness, and smoothness of the skin reduce irritation and sensitivities. Common lipid ingredients are, sphingolipids, phospholipids, and glycosphingolipids. They improve the barrier function of the skin and they are naturally, in the intercellular matrix of the skin. Exfoliating ingredients: Removes the dead cell on the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Exfoliants are mechanical and chemical ingredients that exfoliate the skin. Mechanical exfoliating ingredients are added to products to physically scrape dead cells from the skin’s surface. The ingredients include, polyethylene and jojoba beads, ground nuts as almonds, and various seeds. Chemical exfoliating can be achieved through mild acid chemical ingredients. Natural occurring exfoliants are, Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHA). The AHA are stronger than the BHA. They are derived from, glycolic acid (sugar), malic acid (apple), citric acid (citrous fruit), lactic acid (milk), tartaric acid (grapes). The group of the BHA includes, Salicylic acid derived from winter birch, willow bark, and wintergreen. These exfoliants work by loosening the bond between the cells in the epidermis. The acids come in a variety of concentration and pH levels that affect the potency and irritancy of a given product. A product with the same concentration of hydroxy acid is more irritating at lower pH, therefore will exfoliate the skin deeper. For over-the-counter products and home-use, the recommendation is to use a concentration of 10 percent or less and a pH of 3.5 or greater. It is necessary to use sun protection, because chemical exfoliants will cause sun sensitivity. Enzymes: are exfoliating products that are designed to reduce keratins on the surface of the skin. They are less irritating and exfoliate the skin gently. The ingredients are such as Papain, derived from the papaya Bromelain, derived from the pineapple And pancreatin, derived from animals Exfoliation helps to lighten pigmentations, soften rough skin, and heal areas that are prone to breakouts. After exfoliation the skin appears clearer and absorbs products more easily. Lighteners and brighteners: Are ingredients that are used in the bleaching or lightening of the skin. Commonly used ingredients are hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C, licorice root, bearberry, green tea, and AHA and BHA. These ingredients work by bleaching the upper layers of the epidermis, or by slowing down the pigment factories in the skin, known as melanocytes, thus blocking the production of melanin. They are tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase is the enzyme that converts tyrosine into melanin. These products can increase sun toxicity therefore, it is very important to use sun protection when using them. Delivery system: Vehicles, liposomes, and polymers are 3 types of delivery systems. Vehicles: Are spreading agents that carry other ingredients and deliver them into the skin. Water and emollients are vehicles. Liposome: Are closed encapsulated, bilayer lipids that mimic the cell membranes therefore compatible with the cell and transport the intended ingredients. Polymers: Are chemical compounds formed by several small molecules that release substances onto the skin’s surface at a microscopical controlled rate. They are also referred to as microsponges. Performance ingredients that improve cell metabolism: Advanced skin care treatments are intended to help the skin function at its maximum capacity at any age. By improving cell turnover and a well-planned skin care program, advanced skin care can slow the appearance of aging. Advanced skin care includes antioxidants and other high-tech ingredients such as the following. Polyglucans and Beta-glucans: Are derived from yeast and they stimulate cell metabolism. A polyglucan is hydrophilic, absorbing more that 10 times its weight in water. Also help preserve hydration, collagen, and elastin by forming a protective film on the skin. Beta-glucan help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen. Tissue respiratory factor (TRF): Derived from yeast and functions as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient. Stem cells: Are anti-aging ingredients and are still under development. Most of them are being derived from plants, produced from apples and grapes and are used for protecting and renewing the skin. Epidermal growth factor (EGF): Are naturally produced by our body. It is a mechanism that stimulates the production of new skin cells that renew and replace injured skin. New products and treatments are continually under development. Peptides: Are chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce changes in the skin’s appearance. Peptides help aging skin by improving tissue repair and skin functions such as cell and fibroblast activity. Collagen, elasticity, and skin firmness are enhanced by peptides. Common peptide ingredients are palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and palmitoyl oligopeptide, and copper peptides. Peptides are used also with other ingredients such as antioxidants and hydrators. Glycoproteins: Also called glyco polypeptides, a yeast cell derivative that enhance immune response and cellular metabolism which boost the oxygen uptake in the cell. Glycoproteins strengthens the skin’s natural ability to protect itself and is highly recommended for smoking people and dull skin. Retinol and Retinoic acid (Retin-A): A natural form of vitamin A, stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells. Vitamin A is an antioxidant and is from the “keratotic” group, meaning that it causes exfoliation of skin cells. Vitamin A is produced in many different concentrations and formulas and is added to many skin care products for treating acne and in anti-aging skin care. Using products based on vitamin A, can be irritating to sensitive skin. These products will increase the sun's toxicity and demand the use of SPF. Vitamin and other antioxidants: Antioxidants are vitamins, amino acids, and other natural substances that neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals. Free radicals are aggressive, unstable, oxygen-containing molecules. An atom or a molecule that is unstable because they lost electrons. They steal the needed electron from another atom and cause him to become unstable and lead to a chain of oxidation reaction. Antioxidants are one of the most effective treatments that stabilize and stop the oxidation reaction. Antioxidants substances in skin care products protect the skin and maintain the quality and the safety of the products. Vitamin A, C, E are antioxidants. Other antioxidants include, Alpha lipoic acid, idebenone, stearyl glycyrrhizinate, green tea, and grapeseed. When used in combinations, the formulas are called broad-spectrum antioxidants. That gives a greater range of protection. Vitamin C also known as L-Ascorbic acid: A water-soluble antioxidant that strengthens the white blood cells and the immune system, guards the inside of the cell and DNA, and is essential for producing collagen. Vitamin A and E: Are fat-soluble antioxidants and they protect the cell membrane. Alpha lipoic acid: Is a natural molecule found in every cell in the body. It is a powerful antioxidant, soluble in oil and water. It increases the effects of other antioxidants and is anti-inflammatory and reduces redness. DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol): An antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes, increases the effect of other antioxidants, increases chemicals that control muscle tone, thus improving the appearance of sagging skin. Coenzyme Q10: A powerful antioxidant that protect and revitalizes skin cells It is often formulated with other natural protective ingredients to strengthen the capillaries and increase energy to epidermis cells. It fortifies the skin’s immune function and activates metabolic functions. Sunscreen ingredients: There are 2 types of sunscreen “chemical” sunscreen (carbon based) That chemically absorbs ultraviolet radiation. “Physical” sunscreens that are inorganic (without carbon) that physically reflect scatter ultraviolet radiation. The sun protection factor (SPF) of ingredients is the ability of the product to delay sun-induced erythema. SPF is based on the UVB protection, not the UVA protection. The estimated SPF is based on the sun’s intensity, skin type, product application and other factors. Example of organic chemical sunscreens, octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate) Octisalate (octyl salicylate) Oxybenzone (benzophenone) Example of inorganic physical sunscreen, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. Natural versus synthetic ingredients: Combining natural and synthetic ingredients is one of the best chemical formulations. Natural products can have powerful skin benefits, but also synthetic ingredients can be as effective, and may have certain advantages over ingredients derived naturally from plants. Natural ingredients may cause skin allergies in people who are sensitive, while synthetic versions of the same ingredient may not. Certain synthetic ingredients are effective cell renewal stimulants. But synthetic ingredients may have unhealthy chemicals and do not harness the real essence or purity of plants or oils. Therefore, to get the benefits of both, many manufacturers are combining the natural and the synthetic ingredients. Skin care manufacturers do extensive research to develop the latest technologies into cosmetic formulation. For example, hyaluronic acid was derived from rooster combs and today it is derived from synthetic sources for use in cosmetics. The synthetic version is more stable and have more effective water-binding properties. To choose the best product for the individual client, the esthetician must stay current with the developments of new products, natural and synthetic. Organic ingredients: Are intended to be natural products that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals. Ideally, they are harvested and manufactured in a more natural way. There is no organic labeling standard for cosmetics in the USA. USDA may certify organic products that meet the standards through the national organic program as applied to agricultural products. The content of organically produced ingredients must be at least 95 percent, excluding water and salt. There is international labeling and other third-party certifications for organic products. Organic products are becoming more popular, even thought, It is difficult to formulate products without preservatives and other functional ingredients. Product safety: The FDA does not require approval of cosmetics before their manufacture and sale. The FDA regulates cosmetics only in the areas of safety, labeling, and claim made for a product. Drugs may claim to change a function of the body, cosmetics may claim only to change the appearance of the body. FDA regulations for cosmetic labeling state that companies must list the company’s name, location, or distribution point, and all the ingredients in the product. Ingredients must be listed in descending orders of predominance, starting with the ingredient having highest concentration and ending with the ingredient that has the lowest concentration. A fragrance must be listed as “fragrance”, but no need to list its ingredients. Ingredients with a concentration of less than 1 percent, may be listed in any order. Allergic reactions: Skin care products may cause allergic reactions to certain clients. The most common are the fragrances, but allergies can be caused by essential oils, preservatives, and more. If the client developed an allergic reaction, such as excess redness and burning sensation, it is recommended to immediately remove the ingredient from the client’s skin, and to treat with cortisone cream or calming products. Symptoms of allergic reactions may appear even several days later and may include inflammation of the skin, burning or itching, blisters, blotches, or rashes, the eyes may swell, puff, or produce tears. If the reaction is serious, the product should be taken to a physician to determine the cause and treat the condition appropriately. The best way to avoid allergic reactions is to conduct a “patch test” by applying a small quantity of the product on the inside of the arm near the elbow, or in the ear area, for 24 hours.
10) FACIAL TREATMENTS: Facial treatments are the core treatments that esthetician perform The skin care industry has advanced due to new scientific research that are continually developing advanced skin care products. The field of esthetic has been growing accordingly, and the demand for advanced new products and facial treatments increased. Facials help maintain the health of the skin and correct certain conditions through deep cleansing, using various products and various treatments. Understanding the key elements and benefit of facials gives you the tools and the confidence to provide the best treatment to your client Facial treatment benefits: A facial is a professional service designed to improve and rejuvenate the skin facial treatments include the following benefits. Deep cleansing Exfoliating Increases circulation and detoxifying Release the senses, and the muscles Slows down premature aging Treats conditions, such as dryness Softens wrinkles and aging lines Helps clear up blemishes and minor acne Esthetician skill and techniques: Knowledge of skin histology, skin analysis, and skin care products is essential for an esthetician to make the right decision for the client. It’s also very important to learn and recognize the contraindications, and to have a skillful knowledge of advanced skin technologies and facial equipment. An esthetician should know to communicate with the client, the massage technique of touch and pressure, and flow in the facial, retailing, and client consultation are all a part of the esthetician job. The following skills for success: Technical skills Customer services Retail sales Education Communication To maintain and expand your success, it’s important to continue your education with advanced classes, attendance at conferences and trade shows, and keep informed, excited and motivated. Facial treatment protocol to be successful and maintaining client loyalty Following treatment guidance: Help the client to relax by speaking in a quiet and professional manner Explain the benefits of the products and the service you offer, and answer the client’s questions Provide a skin analysis and educational consultation Provide a quiet atmosphere and work quietly and efficiency Make sure clients are warm and comfortable Maintain neat and clean conditions in the facial work area. Arrange supplies in an orderly fashion If your hands are cold, warm them before touching the client’s face Keep your nails smooth and short to avoid scratching the client’s skin Remove rings, bracelets, and other jewelry that may injure the client Follow systemic procedure Be moderate in all treatments and products application. Too much of a good thing can counteract the benefits Be aware of your touch and the amount of pressure you apply to the face Massage, and apply, or remove product in a smooth consistent pattern. Treat both sides of the face using the same order for the same number of times Apply and remove products neatly, by taking care to the eyes, mouth, and nostrils Do not let water or products drip down the client’s neck, the eyes, or the ears Always give to the client your full attention The communication with the client must be pleasant from the first time, and always approach the client with a smile, be friendly and inviting. Always introduce yourself to new client and greet returning clients by name and warm handshake. Keep all your attention to your client and don’t share private problems with the clients. Take the new client on a quick tour of the facility, introduce him to the receptionist and the coworkers, have confidence with yourself, and your expertise Setup products and supplies checklist: Organize the following supplies in an efficient manner, Supplies: Disinfectant, hand sanitizer/antibacterial soap, covered waste container, bowls, spatulas, fan and mask brushes, tongs, mirror, distilled water, implements, implements tray, hand towels, client wrap, clean linens, blanket, headband, sharp container, bolster, client chart Choose as needed; Steamer, towel warmer, magnifying lamp, etc.… Single use Items: Paper towels, gloves/finger cots, cotton pads, cotton rounds, plastic bags, tissues, extraction supplies. Products: Cleanser, exfoliant, masks, toner, moisturizer, sunscreen Optional; serums, eye cream, lip balm Preparing the client for the facial treatment: A day before the treatment the client receives a message or phone call, asking to confirm the appointment. The client also is asked to arrive 1r minutes before the appointment to fill the consultation form. The technician will take the client to the treating room and show her where to change to a robe and be prepared for the treatment Adjust the head drape, pillow, and linens, drape the hair with a towel or a headband. Optional choice: A bolster placed under the knees and neck pillow They are 2 types of facial Basic facia and mini facial The basic facial takes approximately one hour The mini facial takes half an hour. Usually skipping extraction, skip or brief massage, and brief mask The facial procedure checklist: Client consultation, including review of the contraindications and initial skin analysis Client draping Warm towels and cleansing In-depth skin analysis Exfoliation product or mask Softening with steam or warm towels Extractions (and/or brow waxing or twizing if applicable Massage (massage and mask steps can be reversed) Mask (clay or hydrator) Toner Moisturizer and /or sunscreen serums, eye creams optional) Cleansing and analysis: After the first superficial skin analysis, apply a warm towel for a few minutes to prepare and soften the skin, and clean the skin to remove impurities and makeup before the in-depth skin analysis and facial treatment. Avoid over rubbing and stimulating the skin. Clean the eyes gently and be careful not to drop any product into the eyes. If it happens, have the client rinse and flush the eyes immediately at the sink. Make sure the client is not wearing contact lenses, and do not use to much cleanser while cleaning the eyes and the lips. Analyze the skin after cleaning Skin analysis checklist: Look, touch, ask, listen Analyze the skin using a magnifying lamp. Place eye pads on the eyes, but try not to cover what you need to look at around the eyes Perform the following checklist: Look for any obvious skin conditions and note the skin type Touch the skin, noting its elasticity, softness, texture, and skin condition Continue the consultation, asking questions while analyzing Choose the products Note the information on the client chart (this can be done before, during, or after the facial) Facial contraindications: Contagious diseases such as HIV, herpes, or hepatitis, pinkeye, or ringworm Skin disorders or diseases Medical conditions including pregnancy Certain medications Use of acne drugs or other topical peeling agents Skin irritation Allergies to products and ingredients Severe uncontrolled hypertension Electrical contraindications (as listed in the chapter of facial machine) Exfoliation by using products or brush machine to remove dead skin cells. Makes the skin smoother, helps products penetration by unblocking the surface, and promotes stimulation This step can be performed before steam, extractions, or a mask, and after cleansing Steam or warm towels: Warmth, soften the follicles, promotes more effective cleansing, prepares the skin for extractions or product penetration, soften superficial lines, and increases circulation Make sure the towels or the steam are not too hot and not used for too long on the skin because the heat can damage the capillaries and cause overstimulation, redness, and irritations. The steam can be used before cleansing. The steamer nozzle is placed approximately 18 inches (45cm) away from the client, and the nozzle can be positioned above or bellow the client’s face. Check to make sure that the client feels comfortable Extraction and /or deep pore cleansing: Extraction removes impurities and comedones, extract papules and pustules to release bacteria and fluids, and allowing the skin to heal more rapidly Massage: Promotes physiological relaxation, increases circulation and metabolism, and increases product penetration. The products used for massage have many benefits they should be applied warm with fingertips, or fun brush. The massage can be performed at different times during the treatments depending on the order of your procedures Treatment masks: Can draw out impurities, clear blemishes, tighten and tone skin, and hydrate, calm, or rejuvenate the skin. Masks are applied at different times during a treatment, depending in their function. If you use a mask to draw impurities out of the skin, apply the mask before using steam and extraction. If it is a calming hydrating mask, then it’s applied at the end of the facial to calm the skin and leave in hydrated. Toners: Finish the cleansing process, removes any residue left on the skin, and help balance the pH of the skin. Use the correct toner according to the skin type and skin conditions Serums, eye and lip treatments Serums and ampules are more concentrated ingredients used for specific corrective treatments. They should be applied with fingertips under a mask or moisturizer. Eye and lip creams are usually thicker and are applied with fingertips, or cotton swabs Moisturizers: Seal in moisture and protect the barrier layer of the skin. They are used to hydrate and balance the oil-water moisture of the skin. They should be applied at the end of the treatment Sunscreens: Application of sunscreen daily is essential to help protect the skin. After a facial treatment, protect the skin with sunscreen. It is especially important after exfoliation Completing the service: At the end of the facial service, explain calmly to the client that the service is finished, and she can slowly take her time to get off the treatment bed and dress up. Offer a bottle of water and ask politely if she needs your assistance than leave the room. After the client is ready, explain what to do next, or guide her to the reception area, or meeting area, and continue the after-service consultation. Show the client which products you recommended and write them down on a home-care instruction sheet for her to keep. Tell her and record the products you recommend in her file, than ask her which product she would like to buy, and recommend to schedule another treatment within a month Thank her for coming Make your chart notes and file them away. Clean up the room and prepare for the next client. Different facial philosophies and methods: There are different types of facials and different massage philosophies. Some facials have specific goals, such as stimulating or calming the skin, body, and mind. Philosophies range from holistic ayurvedic treatments to Chinese face mapping, using modern equipment such as microdermabrasion, light therapy and many other. Different nations also practice different methods for example, The European techniques, such as these practiced by French and Germans, developed skin care for hundreds of years, or the natural mineral springs and massage techniques used by eastern European. The American industry is oriented toward the newest technology available, focusing on advanced performance ingredients. India and Asia have different methods and products with different philosophies for example, Asian treatments for lightening skin pigmentation The main differences between a mini-facial and a basic facial: The basic facial includes all the steps of a full 60 minutes The mini facia may take only 30 minutes Performed as following: Quick cleansing Analyzing with magnifying lamp Second cleansing with exfoliant or cleanser exfoliating with a brushing machine Apply a mask for 10 minutes Remove the mask (steam is optional before or after the mask) Apply a tonner Apply moisturizer and sunscreen Recommend a needed treatment for next visit Recommend home – care products and complete the home care chart. Treatment for different skin types and conditions: Dry skin: May appear to be thin, in some cases with small capillaries, coarse to touch, and small follicle size due to less activity of the sebaceous glands The dry skin should be treated with occlusive products, serums and creams, but be moderate because too much of a heavy cream, or oil on dry skin, may inhibit its own production of natural oils. The purpose of the treatment is to stimulate the cell metabolism b using performance ingredients. Massage and exfoliation are beneficial. Protect the barrier function of the skin and keep the skin well lubricated. Use a gentle peel such as enzyme peel, or very gentle type of AHA to exfoliate the skin. Use a rich mask with lipids and peptides, such as collagen or hyaluronic acid Can be used under a paraffin or thermal mask can be used to add penetration. Also, a galvanic machine and massage can assist in the product penetration. Use a moisturizer cream with an oil base, antioxidants, and sunscreen. Dehydrated skin; Feel dry and fluky due to lack of water. The skin can become dehydrated from cosmetic and drying products, weather condition such as wind, or sun, a poor diet, aging, and some medication. Use treatment like the one for dry, mature or sensitive skin. The goal is to hydrate and nourish the skin. Adopt the products for the individual’s needs. Treatments for mature or aging skin. As we age, our skin metabolism slow down, cells and lipids are not replaced rapidly, and the sebaceous glands produce less sebum. The skin appears dry, dull, wrinkled and the texture is rough. The skin ages due to the following factors: Due to neglect and the external treatment it has received, Exposer to extreme climates such as sun, wind, polluted air. Physiological disease, poor health, and emotional problems. Extreme weight loss can result in loss of muscle tone and lead to sagging skin. Medication, a poor diet, smoking and alcohol all those factors may affect the skins appearance The aging process cannot be reversed, but the skin can look and feel much better with the appropriate treatment and products, and by adopting prevention and healthy habits. The treatment goal is to hydrate and revitalize the skin, stimulate the metabolism, and firming the skin. Ingredient for mature skin: Using antioxidant topical and oral such as vitamin A, C, E and minerals, green tea, and grapeseed extract, protecting the barrier function of the skin, and wearing sunscreen, exfoliating the skin with AHA, BHA, or enzyme can combat the signs of aging, the sun damage, and promote the cell turnover Using hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, and Glycerin, peptides, lipids, polyglucans, coenzymes Q10, and liposomes are all beneficial performance ingredients. Treatments for sensitive skin or rosacea: The primary goal in treating sensitive skin is to calm and cool the skin, and to increase the skin’s barrier function. Rosacea is treated the same because it is characterized by red, couperose, and sensitive conditions. Calming ingredients such as aloe vera, chamomile, allantoine, azulene, and licorice extract are all effective on sensitive or irritated skin. Clients with sensitive skin or rosacea should avoid stimulating, drying products and heat. Those clients should avoid vasodilators that dilates capillaries: Heat, the sun, spicy foods, and stimulating, irritants and sensitizing ingredients, color agents, preservatives, and fragrances all can irritate their skin. Home care product recommendations should be designed for sensitive skin. Even with those products a patch test is recommended for them because it’s difficult to predict which product may still irritate their skin. Rosacea is common for people with sensitive skin, and mature skin. Some types of rosacea can be characterized by excessive oiliness of the skin. The face will have flushed appearance especially on the nose and the cheeks, sometime with the development of papules and pustules resembling acne. But rosacea is not the same type of skin condition that appears during adolescence because it usually occurs after the age of 35 and is more common in females than in males, but when a male develops rosacea, it usually becomes severe. Rosacea can be aggravated by alcohol, spicy foods, sun, heat, and emotional stress. In severe cases, refer the client to a dermatologist. Treatment for sensitive skin: sooth the irritation, use a gentle cleanser, limit the use of steam, and heat. To calm the skin and constrict capillaries, use cold towels they are vasoconstricting which means constrict capillaries. Exfoliate the skin gently with enzyme formulated for sensitive skin, use a soothing gel mask for calming, cooling, and toning the skin. Use serums and moisturizer with lipids and calming ingredients to protect and support the barrier function of the skin. Treatments for hyperpigmentation: Sun exposer causes dark pigmentation areas on the skin. The best treatment is to stay out of the sun and wear protective clothing and sunscreen. Chemical exfoliation and brightening agents reducing some of these hyperpigmented area. Brighteners such as : K0ojic acid, mulberry, licorice root, azelaic acid, bearberry, and citrus such as lemon are known to reduce pigmentation. These affect melanin production and are more effective when used with AHAs, BHAs and other types of exfoliants, such as enzyme or mechanical exfoliants such as microdermabrasion. Hydroquinone is a harsh skin bleaching based on vitamin A chemical. Is an effective skin bleaching but may damage the skin and is controversial. Over exfoliation can cause damage and make hyperpigmentation worse, or cause hypopigmentation. During the treatment, stay out of the sun and protect your skin with clothing and sunscreen, because treating the skin with exfoliant agents make the skin more sensitive to the sun Treatment for oily skin: Oily and combination skin needs light water-based products and deep cleansing. Oily skin can tolerate stimulation, stronger products and facial machines. Even though, apply the right products and use the right treatment without irritating the skin, because treating the skin aggressively, may worsen the condition. Acne facials: To balance the skin, the treatments are focused on clearing the follicles by deep cleansing and extractions Treating acne condition is a continuous process and clients need to follow regular skin care programs Acne treatments may include: Clay, oxygen, sulfur or anti-inflammatory masks, desincrustration, steam, extractions, and exfoliation treatments with AHAs and BHAs exfoliants BHAs are effective when used alone, especially for sensitive skin because they are not as strong as AHAs. Before treating your client with BHA exfoliant, to avoid an allergic reaction to Salicylic acid, make sure your client is not allergic to Aspirin Sulfur masks: Exfoliate the skin, heal and dry blemishes Vitamins: Oral vitamins should include Zinc and B-complex vitamin Increased vitamin C: Oral and topical vitamins have antioxidant value and healing effects AHAs and BHAs : These products are used in different pH and percentage to dissolve desmosomes between the cells, to keep the cells exfoliated. Exfoliation also soften acne impactions and stimulates cell production Vitamin A : This topical vitamin stimulates new cell production and clears up the skin and acne impactions Benzoyl peroxide: This product release oxygen that kills the bacteria and clear the Acne impactions Healing creams: These products encourage new cell growth Spot blemish treatments: These include products such as tea tree oil, and benzoyl peroxide that are applied just on blemishes after cleansing Clients with acne disorder should use only noncomedogenic ingredients in products. To calm inflammation, use cold compress or towel and do not irritate the skin. Avoid environmental aggravators such as dirt, grease, sun, humidity, and pollution. Practice stress reduction and good nutrition. Have regular facial once a month or as needed. Home care for acne: The first rule is not to “pick” at the blemishes because self-extractions will cause the impaction to deeper and spread more rapidly. It is also the cause of external bacterial infections and scarring. Calm inflammation by using cold compress or cold wet towel, clean the skin with foaming cleanser with healing products and exfoliant agents such as AHA, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide. Apply light hydration, oil free moisturizer, and sunscreen. A clay mask is recommended twice a week, and hydrating and soothing mask to balance the drying products Extraction technique: Start with cleaning, exfoliating, and warming the skin Wear new gloves, and in some instances protective eyewear are also recommended After the extraction, change for new glove and continue the facial procedure Do not practice extraction without prior instruction There are 3 methods to use for extraction: The finger wrapped with finger gloves and cotton (known as finger cots), cotton swabs, and comedone extractors. Never use the fingernails on the skin for extraction. Finger cots: Are individual finger gloves that are used with thin dumped cotton wrapped around the index finger Comedone extractors: Are metal tools for open comedones and sebaceous glands Cotton swabs: Are smaller than fingertips and are useful around the nose area When performing extractions, put pressure on the skin surrounding the follicular wall. The follicles are positioned in different angles All the areas of the forehead, the top of the nose, the chin, and the jawline have perpendicular to the surface of the skin. The follicles are positioned this way on all flat surfaces The sides of the nose and the cheeks have slanted follicular shafts Before extraction, soften the sebum in the follicles by exfoliating the skin or using desincrustration fluid, enzyme, or galvanic current. Desincrustration process soften the sebum and the comedones in the follicles and prepare the skin for extractions. Then, use either steam, or warm moistened towels, and gently perform extractions Closed comedones also known as white head, or milia, can be removed only after making an opening in the skin. This is done by placing a lancet almost parallel to the surface of the skin and piking the top of the dead cell layer to make an opening for the debris to pass through The lancet is a small, sharp, pointed, surgical blade with a double edge used to pierce, or pick the skin. The lancet is sterilized and comes in a separate, sealed envelope. To keep it sterilized it should not be opened before using. Open it and use immediately, just for one client. Clean the treatment area, the debris, and all the used equipment according to the infection control regulation. Before using a lancet, you need to check with your local regulation agencies for extraction regulation, if you are allowed to use a lancet under your existing license. Men’s skin care: Male clients represent a grown percentage of a spa’s business To attract male clientele, offer special services, and products, designed just for them and promote men’s services by using the term skin treatment rather than the term facial. Conduct consultation privately and tactfully, take a simple, direct approach when discussing services and skin care products. Most men will want to use only few products Men’s skin care products: Unisex lines will work if packaging and fragrances is not feminine. Men’s sebaceous glands are larger, and the skin is thicker. Also , men prefer simple routines and multipurpose products. They may prefer a foaming cleanser, a light moisturizer combined with SPF , offer tubes and pumps that are easy to open Advice the clients to shave in a downward direction – in the direction of the hair growth pattern, because it is less irritating During a facial treatment of men, use sponges and towels rather than pads or gauze because they will grab the beard hair. Advice the client not to shave directly before treatment, because a freshly shaven skin will be more sensitive and exfoliating products, or techniques, including strong sensitizing agents such as AHAs, BHAs, and microdermabrasion, may be contraindicated. Massage and professional movement should flow with the direction of the hair growth. In the neck and the face, the movements will be downward. Many men, especially with coarse curly beard, may suffer from folliculitis. It is an inflammation of the hair follicles. Improper shaving may also cause barbae folliculitis It is a condition characterized by the growing of the hair under the skin and is trapped there, causing bacterial infection. The treatment is to dry and disinfect the pustules, and desensitize the area, and use a southing gel mask. Pseudofolliculitis, also known as razor bumps, resemble folliculitis but without the infection. This condition is also a result of an improper shaving. Exfoliation and foaming cleanser, will help keeping the follicles open with a he3althy looking beard area
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