10) FACIAL TREATMENTS: Facial treatments are the core treatments that esthetician perform The skin care industry has advanced due to new scientific research that are continually developing advanced skin care products. The field of esthetic has been growing accordingly, and the demand for advanced new products and facial treatments increased. Facials help maintain the health of the skin and correct certain conditions through deep cleansing, using various products and various treatments. Understanding the key elements and benefit of facials gives you the tools and the confidence to provide the best treatment to your client Facial treatment benefits: A facial is a professional service designed to improve and rejuvenate the skin facial treatments include the following benefits. Deep cleansing Exfoliating Increases circulation and detoxifying Release the senses, and the muscles Slows down premature aging Treats conditions, such as dryness Softens wrinkles and aging lines Helps clear up blemishes and minor acne Esthetician skill and techniques: Knowledge of skin histology, skin analysis, and skin care products is essential for an esthetician to make the right decision for the client. It’s also very important to learn and recognize the contraindications, and to have a skillful knowledge of advanced skin technologies and facial equipment. An esthetician should know to communicate with the client, the massage technique of touch and pressure, and flow in the facial, retailing, and client consultation are all a part of the esthetician job. The following skills for success: Technical skills Customer services Retail sales Education Communication To maintain and expand your success, it’s important to continue your education with advanced classes, attendance at conferences and trade shows, and keep informed, excited and motivated. Facial treatment protocol to be successful and maintaining client loyalty Following treatment guidance: Help the client to relax by speaking in a quiet and professional manner Explain the benefits of the products and the service you offer, and answer the client’s questions Provide a skin analysis and educational consultation Provide a quiet atmosphere and work quietly and efficiency Make sure clients are warm and comfortable Maintain neat and clean conditions in the facial work area. Arrange supplies in an orderly fashion If your hands are cold, warm them before touching the client’s face Keep your nails smooth and short to avoid scratching the client’s skin Remove rings, bracelets, and other jewelry that may injure the client Follow systemic procedure Be moderate in all treatments and products application. Too much of a good thing can counteract the benefits Be aware of your touch and the amount of pressure you apply to the face Massage, and apply, or remove product in a smooth consistent pattern. Treat both sides of the face using the same order for the same number of times Apply and remove products neatly, by taking care to the eyes, mouth, and nostrils Do not let water or products drip down the client’s neck, the eyes, or the ears Always give to the client your full attention The communication with the client must be pleasant from the first time, and always approach the client with a smile, be friendly and inviting. Always introduce yourself to new client and greet returning clients by name and warm handshake. Keep all your attention to your client and don’t share private problems with the clients. Take the new client on a quick tour of the facility, introduce him to the receptionist and the coworkers, have confidence with yourself, and your expertise Setup products and supplies checklist: Organize the following supplies in an efficient manner, Supplies: Disinfectant, hand sanitizer/antibacterial soap, covered waste container, bowls, spatulas, fan and mask brushes, tongs, mirror, distilled water, implements, implements tray, hand towels, client wrap, clean linens, blanket, headband, sharp container, bolster, client chart Choose as needed; Steamer, towel warmer, magnifying lamp, etc.… Single use Items: Paper towels, gloves/finger cots, cotton pads, cotton rounds, plastic bags, tissues, extraction supplies. Products: Cleanser, exfoliant, masks, toner, moisturizer, sunscreen Optional; serums, eye cream, lip balm Preparing the client for the facial treatment: A day before the treatment the client receives a message or phone call, asking to confirm the appointment. The client also is asked to arrive 1r minutes before the appointment to fill the consultation form. The technician will take the client to the treating room and show her where to change to a robe and be prepared for the treatment Adjust the head drape, pillow, and linens, drape the hair with a towel or a headband. Optional choice: A bolster placed under the knees and neck pillow They are 2 types of facial Basic facia and mini facial The basic facial takes approximately one hour The mini facial takes half an hour. Usually skipping extraction, skip or brief massage, and brief mask The facial procedure checklist: Client consultation, including review of the contraindications and initial skin analysis Client draping Warm towels and cleansing In-depth skin analysis Exfoliation product or mask Softening with steam or warm towels Extractions (and/or brow waxing or twizing if applicable Massage (massage and mask steps can be reversed) Mask (clay or hydrator) Toner Moisturizer and /or sunscreen serums, eye creams optional) Cleansing and analysis: After the first superficial skin analysis, apply a warm towel for a few minutes to prepare and soften the skin, and clean the skin to remove impurities and makeup before the in-depth skin analysis and facial treatment. Avoid over rubbing and stimulating the skin. Clean the eyes gently and be careful not to drop any product into the eyes. If it happens, have the client rinse and flush the eyes immediately at the sink. Make sure the client is not wearing contact lenses, and do not use to much cleanser while cleaning the eyes and the lips. Analyze the skin after cleaning Skin analysis checklist: Look, touch, ask, listen Analyze the skin using a magnifying lamp. Place eye pads on the eyes, but try not to cover what you need to look at around the eyes Perform the following checklist: Look for any obvious skin conditions and note the skin type Touch the skin, noting its elasticity, softness, texture, and skin condition Continue the consultation, asking questions while analyzing Choose the products Note the information on the client chart (this can be done before, during, or after the facial) Facial contraindications: Contagious diseases such as HIV, herpes, or hepatitis, pinkeye, or ringworm Skin disorders or diseases Medical conditions including pregnancy Certain medications Use of acne drugs or other topical peeling agents Skin irritation Allergies to products and ingredients Severe uncontrolled hypertension Electrical contraindications (as listed in the chapter of facial machine) Exfoliation by using products or brush machine to remove dead skin cells. Makes the skin smoother, helps products penetration by unblocking the surface, and promotes stimulation This step can be performed before steam, extractions, or a mask, and after cleansing Steam or warm towels: Warmth, soften the follicles, promotes more effective cleansing, prepares the skin for extractions or product penetration, soften superficial lines, and increases circulation Make sure the towels or the steam are not too hot and not used for too long on the skin because the heat can damage the capillaries and cause overstimulation, redness, and irritations. The steam can be used before cleansing. The steamer nozzle is placed approximately 18 inches (45cm) away from the client, and the nozzle can be positioned above or bellow the client’s face. Check to make sure that the client feels comfortable Extraction and /or deep pore cleansing: Extraction removes impurities and comedones, extract papules and pustules to release bacteria and fluids, and allowing the skin to heal more rapidly Massage: Promotes physiological relaxation, increases circulation and metabolism, and increases product penetration. The products used for massage have many benefits they should be applied warm with fingertips, or fun brush. The massage can be performed at different times during the treatments depending on the order of your procedures Treatment masks: Can draw out impurities, clear blemishes, tighten and tone skin, and hydrate, calm, or rejuvenate the skin. Masks are applied at different times during a treatment, depending in their function. If you use a mask to draw impurities out of the skin, apply the mask before using steam and extraction. If it is a calming hydrating mask, then it’s applied at the end of the facial to calm the skin and leave in hydrated. Toners: Finish the cleansing process, removes any residue left on the skin, and help balance the pH of the skin. Use the correct toner according to the skin type and skin conditions Serums, eye and lip treatments Serums and ampules are more concentrated ingredients used for specific corrective treatments. They should be applied with fingertips under a mask or moisturizer. Eye and lip creams are usually thicker and are applied with fingertips, or cotton swabs Moisturizers: Seal in moisture and protect the barrier layer of the skin. They are used to hydrate and balance the oil-water moisture of the skin. They should be applied at the end of the treatment Sunscreens: Application of sunscreen daily is essential to help protect the skin. After a facial treatment, protect the skin with sunscreen. It is especially important after exfoliation Completing the service: At the end of the facial service, explain calmly to the client that the service is finished, and she can slowly take her time to get off the treatment bed and dress up. Offer a bottle of water and ask politely if she needs your assistance than leave the room. After the client is ready, explain what to do next, or guide her to the reception area, or meeting area, and continue the after-service consultation. Show the client which products you recommended and write them down on a home-care instruction sheet for her to keep. Tell her and record the products you recommend in her file, than ask her which product she would like to buy, and recommend to schedule another treatment within a month Thank her for coming Make your chart notes and file them away. Clean up the room and prepare for the next client. Different facial philosophies and methods: There are different types of facials and different massage philosophies. Some facials have specific goals, such as stimulating or calming the skin, body, and mind. Philosophies range from holistic ayurvedic treatments to Chinese face mapping, using modern equipment such as microdermabrasion, light therapy and many other. Different nations also practice different methods for example, The European techniques, such as these practiced by French and Germans, developed skin care for hundreds of years, or the natural mineral springs and massage techniques used by eastern European. The American industry is oriented toward the newest technology available, focusing on advanced performance ingredients. India and Asia have different methods and products with different philosophies for example, Asian treatments for lightening skin pigmentation The main differences between a mini-facial and a basic facial: The basic facial includes all the steps of a full 60 minutes The mini facia may take only 30 minutes Performed as following: Quick cleansing Analyzing with magnifying lamp Second cleansing with exfoliant or cleanser exfoliating with a brushing machine Apply a mask for 10 minutes Remove the mask (steam is optional before or after the mask) Apply a tonner Apply moisturizer and sunscreen Recommend a needed treatment for next visit Recommend home – care products and complete the home care chart. Treatment for different skin types and conditions: Dry skin: May appear to be thin, in some cases with small capillaries, coarse to touch, and small follicle size due to less activity of the sebaceous glands The dry skin should be treated with occlusive products, serums and creams, but be moderate because too much of a heavy cream, or oil on dry skin, may inhibit its own production of natural oils. The purpose of the treatment is to stimulate the cell metabolism b using performance ingredients. Massage and exfoliation are beneficial. Protect the barrier function of the skin and keep the skin well lubricated. Use a gentle peel such as enzyme peel, or very gentle type of AHA to exfoliate the skin. Use a rich mask with lipids and peptides, such as collagen or hyaluronic acid Can be used under a paraffin or thermal mask can be used to add penetration. Also, a galvanic machine and massage can assist in the product penetration. Use a moisturizer cream with an oil base, antioxidants, and sunscreen. Dehydrated skin; Feel dry and fluky due to lack of water. The skin can become dehydrated from cosmetic and drying products, weather condition such as wind, or sun, a poor diet, aging, and some medication. Use treatment like the one for dry, mature or sensitive skin. The goal is to hydrate and nourish the skin. Adopt the products for the individual’s needs. Treatments for mature or aging skin. As we age, our skin metabolism slow down, cells and lipids are not replaced rapidly, and the sebaceous glands produce less sebum. The skin appears dry, dull, wrinkled and the texture is rough. The skin ages due to the following factors: Due to neglect and the external treatment it has received, Exposer to extreme climates such as sun, wind, polluted air. Physiological disease, poor health, and emotional problems. Extreme weight loss can result in loss of muscle tone and lead to sagging skin. Medication, a poor diet, smoking and alcohol all those factors may affect the skins appearance The aging process cannot be reversed, but the skin can look and feel much better with the appropriate treatment and products, and by adopting prevention and healthy habits. The treatment goal is to hydrate and revitalize the skin, stimulate the metabolism, and firming the skin. Ingredient for mature skin: Using antioxidant topical and oral such as vitamin A, C, E and minerals, green tea, and grapeseed extract, protecting the barrier function of the skin, and wearing sunscreen, exfoliating the skin with AHA, BHA, or enzyme can combat the signs of aging, the sun damage, and promote the cell turnover Using hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, and Glycerin, peptides, lipids, polyglucans, coenzymes Q10, and liposomes are all beneficial performance ingredients. Treatments for sensitive skin or rosacea: The primary goal in treating sensitive skin is to calm and cool the skin, and to increase the skin’s barrier function. Rosacea is treated the same because it is characterized by red, couperose, and sensitive conditions. Calming ingredients such as aloe vera, chamomile, allantoine, azulene, and licorice extract are all effective on sensitive or irritated skin. Clients with sensitive skin or rosacea should avoid stimulating, drying products and heat. Those clients should avoid vasodilators that dilates capillaries: Heat, the sun, spicy foods, and stimulating, irritants and sensitizing ingredients, color agents, preservatives, and fragrances all can irritate their skin. Home care product recommendations should be designed for sensitive skin. Even with those products a patch test is recommended for them because it’s difficult to predict which product may still irritate their skin. Rosacea is common for people with sensitive skin, and mature skin. Some types of rosacea can be characterized by excessive oiliness of the skin. The face will have flushed appearance especially on the nose and the cheeks, sometime with the development of papules and pustules resembling acne. But rosacea is not the same type of skin condition that appears during adolescence because it usually occurs after the age of 35 and is more common in females than in males, but when a male develops rosacea, it usually becomes severe. Rosacea can be aggravated by alcohol, spicy foods, sun, heat, and emotional stress. In severe cases, refer the client to a dermatologist. Treatment for sensitive skin: sooth the irritation, use a gentle cleanser, limit the use of steam, and heat. To calm the skin and constrict capillaries, use cold towels they are vasoconstricting which means constrict capillaries. Exfoliate the skin gently with enzyme formulated for sensitive skin, use a soothing gel mask for calming, cooling, and toning the skin. Use serums and moisturizer with lipids and calming ingredients to protect and support the barrier function of the skin. Treatments for hyperpigmentation: Sun exposer causes dark pigmentation areas on the skin. The best treatment is to stay out of the sun and wear protective clothing and sunscreen. Chemical exfoliation and brightening agents reducing some of these hyperpigmented area. Brighteners such as : K0ojic acid, mulberry, licorice root, azelaic acid, bearberry, and citrus such as lemon are known to reduce pigmentation. These affect melanin production and are more effective when used with AHAs, BHAs and other types of exfoliants, such as enzyme or mechanical exfoliants such as microdermabrasion. Hydroquinone is a harsh skin bleaching based on vitamin A chemical. Is an effective skin bleaching but may damage the skin and is controversial. Over exfoliation can cause damage and make hyperpigmentation worse, or cause hypopigmentation. During the treatment, stay out of the sun and protect your skin with clothing and sunscreen, because treating the skin with exfoliant agents make the skin more sensitive to the sun Treatment for oily skin: Oily and combination skin needs light water-based products and deep cleansing. Oily skin can tolerate stimulation, stronger products and facial machines. Even though, apply the right products and use the right treatment without irritating the skin, because treating the skin aggressively, may worsen the condition. Acne facials: To balance the skin, the treatments are focused on clearing the follicles by deep cleansing and extractions Treating acne condition is a continuous process and clients need to follow regular skin care programs Acne treatments may include: Clay, oxygen, sulfur or anti-inflammatory masks, desincrustration, steam, extractions, and exfoliation treatments with AHAs and BHAs exfoliants BHAs are effective when used alone, especially for sensitive skin because they are not as strong as AHAs. Before treating your client with BHA exfoliant, to avoid an allergic reaction to Salicylic acid, make sure your client is not allergic to Aspirin Sulfur masks: Exfoliate the skin, heal and dry blemishes Vitamins: Oral vitamins should include Zinc and B-complex vitamin Increased vitamin C: Oral and topical vitamins have antioxidant value and healing effects AHAs and BHAs : These products are used in different pH and percentage to dissolve desmosomes between the cells, to keep the cells exfoliated. Exfoliation also soften acne impactions and stimulates cell production Vitamin A : This topical vitamin stimulates new cell production and clears up the skin and acne impactions Benzoyl peroxide: This product release oxygen that kills the bacteria and clear the Acne impactions Healing creams: These products encourage new cell growth Spot blemish treatments: These include products such as tea tree oil, and benzoyl peroxide that are applied just on blemishes after cleansing Clients with acne disorder should use only noncomedogenic ingredients in products. To calm inflammation, use cold compress or towel and do not irritate the skin. Avoid environmental aggravators such as dirt, grease, sun, humidity, and pollution. Practice stress reduction and good nutrition. Have regular facial once a month or as needed. Home care for acne: The first rule is not to “pick” at the blemishes because self-extractions will cause the impaction to deeper and spread more rapidly. It is also the cause of external bacterial infections and scarring. Calm inflammation by using cold compress or cold wet towel, clean the skin with foaming cleanser with healing products and exfoliant agents such as AHA, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide. Apply light hydration, oil free moisturizer, and sunscreen. A clay mask is recommended twice a week, and hydrating and soothing mask to balance the drying products Extraction technique: Start with cleaning, exfoliating, and warming the skin Wear new gloves, and in some instances protective eyewear are also recommended After the extraction, change for new glove and continue the facial procedure Do not practice extraction without prior instruction There are 3 methods to use for extraction: The finger wrapped with finger gloves and cotton (known as finger cots), cotton swabs, and comedone extractors. Never use the fingernails on the skin for extraction. Finger cots: Are individual finger gloves that are used with thin dumped cotton wrapped around the index finger Comedone extractors: Are metal tools for open comedones and sebaceous glands Cotton swabs: Are smaller than fingertips and are useful around the nose area When performing extractions, put pressure on the skin surrounding the follicular wall. The follicles are positioned in different angles All the areas of the forehead, the top of the nose, the chin, and the jawline have perpendicular to the surface of the skin. The follicles are positioned this way on all flat surfaces The sides of the nose and the cheeks have slanted follicular shafts Before extraction, soften the sebum in the follicles by exfoliating the skin or using desincrustration fluid, enzyme, or galvanic current. Desincrustration process soften the sebum and the comedones in the follicles and prepare the skin for extractions. Then, use either steam, or warm moistened towels, and gently perform extractions Closed comedones also known as white head, or milia, can be removed only after making an opening in the skin. This is done by placing a lancet almost parallel to the surface of the skin and piking the top of the dead cell layer to make an opening for the debris to pass through The lancet is a small, sharp, pointed, surgical blade with a double edge used to pierce, or pick the skin. The lancet is sterilized and comes in a separate, sealed envelope. To keep it sterilized it should not be opened before using. Open it and use immediately, just for one client. Clean the treatment area, the debris, and all the used equipment according to the infection control regulation. Before using a lancet, you need to check with your local regulation agencies for extraction regulation, if you are allowed to use a lancet under your existing license. Men’s skin care: Male clients represent a grown percentage of a spa’s business To attract male clientele, offer special services, and products, designed just for them and promote men’s services by using the term skin treatment rather than the term facial. Conduct consultation privately and tactfully, take a simple, direct approach when discussing services and skin care products. Most men will want to use only few products Men’s skin care products: Unisex lines will work if packaging and fragrances is not feminine. Men’s sebaceous glands are larger, and the skin is thicker. Also , men prefer simple routines and multipurpose products. They may prefer a foaming cleanser, a light moisturizer combined with SPF , offer tubes and pumps that are easy to open Advice the clients to shave in a downward direction – in the direction of the hair growth pattern, because it is less irritating During a facial treatment of men, use sponges and towels rather than pads or gauze because they will grab the beard hair. Advice the client not to shave directly before treatment, because a freshly shaven skin will be more sensitive and exfoliating products, or techniques, including strong sensitizing agents such as AHAs, BHAs, and microdermabrasion, may be contraindicated. Massage and professional movement should flow with the direction of the hair growth. In the neck and the face, the movements will be downward. Many men, especially with coarse curly beard, may suffer from folliculitis. It is an inflammation of the hair follicles. Improper shaving may also cause barbae folliculitis It is a condition characterized by the growing of the hair under the skin and is trapped there, causing bacterial infection. The treatment is to dry and disinfect the pustules, and desensitize the area, and use a southing gel mask. Pseudofolliculitis, also known as razor bumps, resemble folliculitis but without the infection. This condition is also a result of an improper shaving. Exfoliation and foaming cleanser, will help keeping the follicles open with a he3althy looking beard area